Indonesia’s most famous island has a unique Hindu culture in a predominantly Muslim country. If you combine the Indian states of Goa and Kerala, the result would be Bali! The numerous two wheelers on the narrow roads made me feel I was still in India! But Bali has its share of attractions and provides several advantages to Indians looking for a quick short vacation. And only in Bali, I have noticed marketing for ‘Instagram’ tours!
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Bali is becoming a popular destination for Indians
Bali is a popular destination for Indians and India now stands second behind Australia in terms of number of tourists. Direct air connectivity, visa on arrival or even better, eVisa on Arrival that can be obtained ahead of arrival, easy availability of vegetarian food and affordable cost of travel makes Bali an attractive destination for Indians.
I visited Bali in the month of May for a week but somehow, Bali did not strike a chord with me even though I enjoyed my time. There is nothing in Bali that places it in the category of ‘must visit’ destination.
Feel like a millionaire in Bali
If you wish to feel like a millionaire, Bali is the place to be in. The exchange rates are such that one million Indonesian Rupiah(IDR) is just about INR 5k! IDR 100k is just ~INR 500. I was carrying both one million and half a million IDR currency notes in my wallet, literally spending millions in a day!
This reminded me of my visit to Italy way back in the year 2000. That was the first time I felt like a millionaire as I was carrying half a million and one million Lira currency notes in my wallet.
Getting to Bali
There are direct flights to I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport(popularly called Denpasar Airport) from few Indian cities including Bengaluru. Indigo flies from Bengaluru in an all economy configuration. I paid around 52k for the return journey. What was surprising was that the economy class fare on Singapore Airlines(via Singapore) was only 40k! But I preferred a direct flight.
This was the first time I flew international with Indigo and the experience was not great. The aircraft Indigo deployed was the same that they deploy on domestic routes. The seats are good for 2-3 hours of flying time but not more. Even though we had the entire row of 3 seats for 2 of us(onward as well as return journey), the seats were extremely inconvenient for the 7 hour flight. The crew had no blankets or pillows to offer for the onward night journey!
In hindsight, Singapore Airlines would have been far more comfortable at a lower cost.
Visa for Indians
Indian passport holders are eligible for Visa on Arrival but a better option is to apply for eVisa on Arrival(eVoA). It is a simple process and eVisa can be obtained ahead of arrival. It costs IDR 500k per person and is issued immediately after payment is made. This can save time at the airport and one can generally use the automated gates to exit. I said generally because it did not seem to work for everyone. If it works, there is no need to stand in the immigration queue. But still carry the relevant documents in case you have to pass through manual immigration counter. As soon as Immigration was done, besides the manual sticker on my passport, I also received a Limited Stay Permit on my eMail ID, permitting me to stay in Bali for 30 days.
Complete Customs, Health declarations and pay tourist levy online
I also filled up the simple but separate Customs and Health declaration forms online before departure. In the Customs form, number of bags has to be declared and can be completed online within 72 hours before arrival . I had some confusion on the declaration for mobile phone. Eventually, I gathered that since I was staying for less than 90 days and was not going to buy a local SIM, I did not have to declare it. The QR codes generated after submission of the two forms needs to the shown to the officers at the airport- hard copy or on the mobile phone, both are ok. If you miss, you can also submit the forms after arrival but before immigration. The airport has also provided few computer terminals for this purpose.
Certain media reports suggest that Bali has recently released a new app that can be used to complete immigration, health and customs formalities. The app cannot be used to apply for visa or pay the tourist fee. Looks like it is mandatory for all visitors but I am not sure if every member of a family travelling together needs to download the app or just one can take care of the rest.
Bali also collects an IDR 150k levy from all tourists. Pay it online before travel.
The Consulate General of India, Bali has issued this Guidance for Indian tourists visiting Bali.
Local commute in Bali
From airport to Ubud, I pre-booked a car through MakeMyTrip. I did not notice any prepaid taxi counter at the airport. While taxis are available in plenty, be aware of the normal rates to avoid being taken for a ride! I paid IDR 400k(INR 2k) for the 35 kms journey to my hotel in Ubud.
Bali is not a big island but commuting takes time due to narrow roads and traffic density. Tourist cars have actually made the situation worse. For sightseeing, it would be best to engage a taxi, either online or through your hotel. I booked at the hotel which was a bit expensive but in return, got a taxi that was well maintained and clean.
Metered taxis like Bluebird can also be hired for point to point travel. I downloaded both the Gojek app and Bluebird app but never got to use them. Couple of times I checked the fares but there were not very different from what my hotel quoted.
Uber is not available in Bali. There is also no public transport in Bali.
Cost of taxi in Bali
I paid the following rates for Toyota Innova booked through hotel. There was extra 10% tax when I made payment directly to Westin. In Seminyak, I paid the car driver directly. No additional tax and no invoice.
- Airport to Ubud – IDR 400k
- For 8 hours – IDR 900k – 1000k.
- Ubud to Seminyak – IDR 440k
- Seminyak to Uluwatu – IDR 800k, half a day
- Seminyak to Tanah Lot – IDR 600k, half a day
Where to stay in Bali
For a causal tourist, the two of the best areas are Ubud(central Bali) and Seminyak(close to beach).
Ubud is best location for first timer
Ubud is possibly the best area as it is centrally located and it is possible to visit all the major attractions in Bali from here. Central Bali is hilly with lush green forests. There are plenty of accommodation options and vegetarian food is available. The only difficulty is that the hotels are likely to be a bit away from Ubud market and hence, walking to the nearest vegetarian restaurant for a meal may not always be an option. But many higher end hotels operate a free shuttle to the Ubud market through out the day but not necessarily till late in the evening, say 10pm.
Seminyak and Kuta are closer to the international airport
Seminyak is a popular place with a lively beach (in the evenings) and a choice of mid-range to high end hotels. There are few fantastic bars but with limited vegetarian food/snack options. Kuta, about 3.5 kms down south from Seminyak, is also a popular place and said to have more mid range to budget accommodation options. Kuta is also closer to the international airport.
Both Seminyak and Kuta are rather westernised. Ubud is still traditional.
Other options
Nusa Dua has a good concentration of luxury hotels but its location at the southern end means a great deal of time required to commute to places of tourist interest. But it can be an option to consider for last couple of nights before departure as the airport is a short drive from here.
Nusa Penida island may be a good option if you wish to be close to nature and have a quiet vacation.
Sanur, on the western coast, is also an option. What works for Sanur is its proximity to the international airport and accessibility to all the tourist attractions in Bali.
All the above options do not have the same vibes as Seminyak or Ubud or even Kuta.
My hotels
I stayed at Element by Westin Bali Ubud(INR 13k per night for a couple with breakfast) and Courtyard Bali Seminyak resort(INR 14k per night for a couple with breakfast). While there were a lot of restaurants near Courtyard, there were hardly any near Westin and the Ubud market was not exactly walking distance. But the menu at Westin featured few vegetarian items and the chef was only too eager to customize. The rates too were quite reasonable and hence I ended up eating dinner at the hotel every night.
One location or 2 locations?
I was in Bali for a week and hence I chose to spend 4 days in Ubud and 3 days in Seminyak. The airport is just about 10kms from Seminyak with a driving time of 30-40 minutes. Ubud is over 35kms and the drive can take up to 2 hours or more, depending on traffic. I had to get to the airport by about 8 am for the return flight and hence it made sense to stay closer to the airport for the last couple of days. Even otherwise, Seminyak is better located for the drive to Uluwatu and Tanah Lot.
Check this link for a tourist map of Bali which will make it easier to decide. You will find more options online.
Top places to see in Bali
The list seems long but as I discovered, most attractions (including sunrise and sunset points) are hyped up, temples are similar and worse, some of the photographs, especially those with split gateways(called Candi Bentar locally) are not real. The Bali swing photos too are deceptive. Many of these places have ‘instagram’/selfie spots to click pictures and make it appear more attractive than it actually is.
- Temples : Tanah Lot, Uluwatu, Besakih, Ulan Danu Beratan, Tirta Empul, Pura Lempuyang…..
- Rice terraces : Tegalalang, Jatiluwih…
- Beaches/Islands : Seminyak, Kuta, Canggu, Nusa Penida island, Gilli island.
- Waterfalls : Leke Leke, Sekumpul, Tegenungan, Tukad Cepung and many more.
- Activities : Mount Batur trek, Mount Agong trek, Campuhan Ridge walk, surfing snorkeling, scuba diving, Bali swing, rafting, ATVs, water sports, Kecak dance
- Wildlife : Ubud Monkey forest, Safari and Marine park, Bird park.
Almost all temples, rice terraces and waterfalls levy entry fees, normally either IDR 50k or IDR 75k per person.
More about my experiences in a separate post. The places highlighted in red are the only ones I felt was worth visiting. The ones in blue were either disappointing or there was nothing special.
Vegetarian meals in Bali
Beyond Indian restaurants, the choice is largely Italian. I do not particularly fancy Indonesian/Malaysian vegetarian food though that is also an option.
Indian restaurants are largely found at Kuta, Seminyak and Ubud . Hotels will normally be willing to convert a menu listed non-vegetarian item to its vegetarian equivalent. Without any change in price.
Individual items cost around IDR 50k to 100k. Average meal cost per couple is IDR 300-400k, without drinks(~INR 1.5k to 2k). Beer costs about IDR 50k to 130k, so also juices and mocktails. Tender coconut water is popular, and costs between IDR 25k to 50k. In secluded tourist areas, the costs are much higher. Hotel rates are not that much higher than the stand alone restaurants.
Shopping in Bali
Shopping in the traditional smaller shops is fun in Bali. Apart from souvenirs, apparel, items made of wood/bamboo and low cost jewellery can be purchased. The Ubud Art Market just opposite the Royal Place has several interesting stuff. Ubud market has so many streets full of shops and I actually enjoyed walking on Jalan Kajeng that eventually led to rice fields and villages. It is a walking only street, with small shops and cafes dotting both the sides. Seminyak and some of the places of tourist attractions have shops selling variety of stuff. Few jewellery items such as necklaces, rings, earrings, bracelets were attractive and cost between IDR 250k to 500k(INR 1.3k to 2.6k)
Bargaining is generally a must though at few of the stand-alone/branded shops, prices are fixed. A bit of discount ( I got 10% ) is possible, depending on quantum of purchase.
Coffee
Luwak coffee is famous but after getting to know how it is made, I am not sure how many would wish to buy it! I tasted it but purchased other varieties of coffee such as Avacado, Ginseng and Vanilla. Cost IDR140k each for 200gms but they are creamy and sweet. Bit expensive but the overall amount spent was small.
Spas
There are plenty of them all over. Balinese massage is famous and can cost IDR 200k plus per person for one hour in stand alone spas and upto double that amount in hotels. Nothing special but quite welcome after a full day tour.
Currency
Local currency in Indonesian Rupiah(IDR). Roughly, INR 100=IDR 18,600. Minimise conversion at the airport where 1 USD fetched me IDR 15,600. Elsewhere, I got between 16,000 to 16,200. There are quite a few money changers spread across tourist areas.
Cost of a one week holiday in Bali
A stay in a 5 star property will cost upwards of IDR 2 million (INR 11k ) per night for a couple, depending on the location. But there are several other decent options for half that amount. Food and beverages will need ~IDR 1 million per day. Taxi hire for full day is about IDR 900k but can be a bit lower if booked directly. Overall, INR 125k (~IDR 23 million) is a good sum for a couple without activities and international airfare but including entry fee at various attractions.
If one opts for budget accommodation and smaller car, costs can come down by up to 40-50%.
How many days in Bali?
The flight time is 7+ hours from India. A week is ideal and in about 8-9 days, one can just about experience everything that Bali has to offer.
Best time to visit Bali
November to March is the wet season. Generally avoidable but if you are looking at lower costs, January to March and November will probably offer the best rates.
April to October and part of December is the high season though there can be monthly variations in terms of crowd. I visited in May when the crowds were relatively thinner. The weather was excellent, with warm mornings and cool evenings. Bit of rain on couple of days but it did not impact sightseeing. April, July, August, September and December bring in larger crowds. Be prepared for longer queues at some of the tourist places during these months. Also, lots of Indonesians tend to travel to Bali over weekends almost though the high season.
The temperatures do not vary much through the year. Normally between 20° to 30°C.
Tipping
Tipping is not mandatory but appreciated when given. Some restaurants add service charges to the invoice. Just bear in mind that IDR 10k is only about INR 54. So that should be the minimum.
Is Bali worth a visit?
My experience is that most tourist places in Bali are overrated. The roads are narrow and traffic density is high mainly because of tourist vehicles. Queues can be long at popular places such as Bali swing and Uluwatu temple kecak dance. But beyond the towns, the island is scenic without doubt. The main island of Bali is a combination of ordinary beaches, volcanic mountains and lush jungles. More than the temples, I enjoyed my time amidst nature, be it lush forests or the volcanic mountains or the natural spring water. Given the advantages that Indian tourists have(easy visa, direct flights, affordable accommodation and costs, vegetarian food), it is worth a short trip, especially for the younger crowd looking for ‘instagram’ photos. You will have a good time, but don’t expect any ‘wow’ factor in Bali.
