The largest state in the United States of America, Alaska, is known for its glaciers, national parks, northern lights, midnight sun, tundra vegetation, wildlife(bears, moose, whales), cruises and as I discovered, vast open uninhabited spaces. To me, Alaska was always an exotic destination, located miles away from civilization. But when it comes to nature, there may not any parallel around the world. Over 3 million lakes, 100k glaciers, tallest mountain peaks in US, over 70 active volcanoes, a 2000 mile long Yukon river, large forest areas and what not.
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Activities to consider for the itinerary
Denali Star train from Fairbanks to Anchorage
Cost of a 8N, 9D vacation in Alaska
Should Alaska be visited at all?
Why is Alaska not among the top visited states in US?
Alaska welcomes ~3 million tourists each year, much less than several other states in USA. So why do many tourists give it a miss? The remote location? Large size of the state? Short tourist season of ~4 months which is also interrupted by bad weather? High travel costs possibly linked to its remote location? Similar sub-arctic tundra and taiga vegetation and coastal fjords? Hard to pinpoint honestly. One other way to look at it is that bulk of the 3 million tourists visit in 3-4 months of summer as the months of October to April are extremely cold. Whatever, I think Alaska certainly is worth visiting once.
Interesting to note that Alaska shares boundary with Canada and not United States. The 48 states of USA, other than Alaska and Hawaii, are referred to as ‘Lower 48’ as they are contiguous.
Planning a trip to Alaska
Despite abundant guidance that is available, it took me time to plan my itinerary. My initial plan was to take a 7 or 10 day cruise out of Seattle. But the mandatory halt at Victoria/Vancouver in Canada meant a requirement for Canadian visa and I did not have that much extra time. When I looked at sightseeing options, I was lost. There were so many of them – railroad tours, bus tours, flightseeing tours, short cruises, self-driving tours and what not. And everything was stated to be a must do, except the bus tours! Then there were curated itineraries from few days to 3 weeks and more.
For a change, my vegetarian status helped
Fortunately, my vegetarian status came to my rescue! After a bit of research, I concluded that finding vegetarian food beyond Anchorage and Fairbanks may be a challenge. And given the size of Alaska, I chose both and divided my 9 days in Alaska equally, with one day spent on the train from Fairbanks to Anchorage. I also decided against travelling to Seward(for Kenai Fjord National Park) due to likelihood of rain in the first week of September.
Variety of activities to choose from
Next step was to decide on the activities. For most of the activities, summer time is the best time. The type of activities are actually limited but the geographical spread, volume of variations for available activities and the number of operators was overwhelming to say the least. Since I travelled in the first half of September, my choices were thankfully a bit limited.
Alaska is all about outdoors
What I learnt is that Alaska is all about being outdoors, being with the nature. There is not much to see and do in the two main towns of Anchorage and Fairbanks. Being sparsely populated means nature is largely untouched.
Prominent regions visited by tourists
Another way to look at Alaska is in terms of broad regions with key places visited by tourists.
- Interior : Denali, Fairbanks
- South Central : Anchorage, Talkeetna, Seward
- South West : Lake Clark/Katmai National Park. Accessible from both Anchorage or Seward.
- South East : Juneau, Sitka, Haines, Ketchikan
Top activities to consider including in the itinerary
Viewing glaciers
Tidewater glaciers can be viewed on a cruise out of Whittier or Seward. Or one can drive to Portage or Matanuska glacier from Anchorage and even take a hike on the Matanuska glacier with appropriate gear and with a guide. A variation is glacier landings on flightseeing tours. There are glaciers near Juneau also.
Taking a Cruise
Best out of Seward or Whittier. Day cruises lasting from 4 to 6 hours are good enough. Juneau too is an option. I took a short cruise out of Whittier that included views of both tidewater and mountain glaciers.
Watching wildlife
Don’t expect a variety that you would see on an African safari! Wildlife in Alaska essentially means bears(brown/black bears) followed by Moose. The best season for watching bears is stated to mid June to mid August. From Anchorage, Lake Clark National Park and Katmai National Park are the two options. The journey is possibly as interesting as the destination (combination of floatplanes, SUV and boats). Costs over $1000 per adult. There are other options as well depending on where you are based. Including near Denali.
If you prefer to watch polar bears, tours are offered in summer.
I saw bears(brown and black) at Denali National Park, and while driving back to Fairbanks, a black bear sauntered across the road right in front of my car. At Anchorage, I sighted Moose within the town limits!
Marine wildlife
For watching whales, a cruise out of Seward appears to be a better option as compared to Whittier but eventually, it is a chance. On the short cruise out of Whittier, I only saw birds, otters and sea lions. And a black bear walking high up in the mountains.
Easier options to view wildlife include visiting a zoo(in Anchorage), the Alaskan Wildlife Conservation Centre(near Anchorage), Large Animal Research Station(Fairbanks) and Alaska SeaLife Centre(Seward).
Flightseeing
You will be spoilt for choices but flightseeing is obviously more expensive. Options include fixed wing planes, floatplanes and helicopters. Take a flight over the mountains and glaciers. Maybe over Denali or Arctic circle. I took one to the Arctic Circle. Just a word of caution – considering safety, look for experienced operators.
Scenic drives
I drove between Fairbanks and Denali and then between Anchorage and Whittier. Both the drives were extremely scenic. The fact that even in September, it gets dark around 8pm or so also helps. Longer daylight. Other recommended drives include Old Glenn Highway, Matanuska glacier drive and so on.
View Northern Lights/Experience Midnight Sun
Fairbanks is a good base for either. You can stay put in Fairbanks or move to lodges/resorts further up towards Arctic circle. Double check the available food options if you are a vegetarian.
Hiking amidst Taiga/Tundra vegetation
From sub-arctic Tundra vegetation to Boreal forests comprising conifers like pine and spruce, the vegetation is something different. Limited range of colors but what an amazing combination – from green to brown to yellow to red. Other than Denali National Park, there are plenty of options in and aorund Anchorage for hiking.
There is one big reason why hiking may have to be selective for many tourists. And that is the possibility of encounters with bears, moose, caribou etc. Whichever park or trailheads I visited, there were signboards with guidelines for hikers and suggestions on what to do if one encountered a bear or a moose. I doubt if any tourist would remember any of that when coming face to face with a much larger bear! Since tourists may not be prepared, unlike the locals, it can play on one’s mind. Hikes are generally lonely and it is not as if you are in a big group. Thankfully, whatever little hiking I did was devoid of any encounters!
Other activities
There are few more activities such as Kayaking and Rafting that even beginners can enjoy. You can try that if time is not a constraint.
Meet a local Alaskan
I have always wondered how local Alaskans survive the harsh winter. Luckily, on the Arctic tour, we were taken to a village near Coldfoot and spent an hour with a local. He explained how he survives the winter and how hunting one moose can provide sufficient meat for a family of four through the winter months!
Operators I used
Northern Alaska Tour Company for the Arctic tour and for the Whittier day cruise, there was only one operator, Phillips Cruises. Both were very professionally organized. But then, the weather was also favorable.
How much time is required?
One thing I noted was that the landscape hardly changed even when I moved from Fairbanks to Anchorage. The same Boreal forests and sub-arctic Tundra vegetation. While I did not visit Seward or Juneau, from the photographs that I have seen, I am not sure if they offer a very different experience as compared to Whittier. It would make sense to be selective and not repeat same activities in a different location, unless you have a specific reason.
About 10 days is ideal
On that basis, for a casual tourist, about 7-10 days is good the first time. If spending a week or less, best to base your self in Anchorage. For 8-10 days, I would suggest Anchorage and Seward or Anchorage and Denali or Fairbanks. Fairbanks can actually be dropped if one is not keen on Northern Lights/Midnight Sun or Arctic tour. Visiting both Seward and Juneau is not necessary the first time. South East Alaska, comprising Juneau, Sitka, Haines and Ketchikan are not easily accessible and hence if this area is to be covered, it would make sense to do it over a period of one week.
Beyond 10-12 days or so, I am not sure if it is worth staying in Alaska. Expenses will mount and there will probably be nothing new. Same activities, different location. Whichever way, be choosy and do not rush. And keep buffer as weather can be unpredictable.
Getting to Alaska
By air
The two major airports are Anchorage and Fairbanks. Anchorage has better air connectivity to other cities in US as compared to Fairbanks but even then, majority of the flights are to/from Seattle. There are direct flights to very few other US cities such as Chicago, Denver, Las Vegas and Minneapolis but not in the winter months.
I flew into Fairbanks direct from Chicago and flew out of Anchorage to Chicago via Seattle. Flying via Seattle provides more options but the total journey time is also more. The flight time to Seattle is 3.5 hours with a time difference of 1 hour(Seattle is ahead). To Chicago, the flying time is ~7.5 hours but adding the connection time and the time difference results in a journey time of almost 12 hours.
There is another airport at Juneau, the capital city, with direct flights to Seattle.
By Ship(Cruise)
The preferred choice for many of the travellers is a cruise to Juneau, Seward or Whittier followed by a short land tour before getting back on ship. The ships halt at Victoria/Vancouver in Canada which means Indian passport holders need a Canadian tourist visa, even if the decision is to stay put on the ship.
Travel between Fairbanks and Anchorage
The cheapest option may be bus while the fastest and not too expensive option(if peak times are excluded) is to fly. But the unanimous recommendations are to take the Denali Star train or drive. By road, it is a full day drive(8 hours or so) but ideal would be to halt overnight on the way so as to enjoy the views. Maybe at Denali, maybe Talkeetna. As I had planned to drive from Fairbanks to Denali and back, I booked the train. The train is actually the most expensive option and at the same time, the slowest. Takes little over 12 hours. But the journey is fairly scenic and enjoyable.
2 travel classes on offer in Denali Star
The day I travelled, winter fares(lower by $60 or so) had kicked in. The Denali Star train offers 2 travel classes – Adventure class and Goldstar Service. Adventure class had big windows and comfortable seats with excellent leg room. I could click pictures from the open window in the vestibule. I also had access to a viewing gallery and a cafe that unfortunately did not have any vegetarian sandwich though listed in the menu. But I was prepared and had packed stuff from Fairbanks. The tickets were priced at $215 per adult and inclusive of snacks and beverages, I must have spent ~$250.
The Goldstar Service is inclusive of 3 meals and a seat on the upper level with glass domed ceiling and access to an open viewing platform. The tickets were priced around $435 or so.
3rd option is a privately owned car
There is another option called Wilderness Express which is owned by a private operator and meant for cruise passengers. One or two cars are attached to Denali Star. Similar to Goldstar Service except that food and beverages have to be paid for separately. Available to general public if there are vacancies. Alaskarailroad does not sell tickets for Wilderness Express.
Train goes a bit slow for passengers to enjoy the unfolding scenery
While the scenery is captivating, it does not vary much through the journey. The train goes a bit slow, covering a distance of 356 miles in over 12 hours. Good thing the train was on time when I travelled but this is not always the case.
Adventure class is worth the price
Overall, journey is enjoyable and the Adventure Class is certainly worth the cost. I am sure Goldstar Service would also be enjoyable but non availability of vegetarian meal would take the fun out for those who follow vegetarian diet. And if weather turns out to be unfavourable, the premium paid for Goldstar Service may seem a bit high. The summer time price of close to $500 per adult is certainly steep.
If you are short on time, take the flight. You may save some money and also have at least 8 hours extra in Anchorage. But if you specifically set apart a day for the train ride, you will enjoy it, weather Gods permitting.
Tipping
Tipping is always optional but I got the feeling it is generally expected. When making the payment by card, the PoS machines have been configured to allow you to choose the tip % – ranging from 5% to 20% or custom amount. Few had a ‘no tip’ option as well. What I did not like was the expectation of tip even before the service is rendered, for example, at coffee shops or select restaurants. On guided tours, the brochures provide guidance on what is an ‘appropriate tip’ and to whom it should be paid. Helpful, no doubt.
Even though tipping is optional, when the cashier thrusts the PoS at you with the ‘tip’ screen and says you can tip whatever you wish too, most would be too embarrassed to reject. I usually ended up paying 10% but I also noted quite a few Americans choosing the ‘no tip’ option.
When to visit Alaska?
June to August is the peak season. And also the most expensive. I visited in the first week of September when the day temperatures were up to 15°c but the night temperatures would drop to 5°c or below. But the weather was largely clear and hence I would think it is also a good month to visit, especially the first 15 days. Not much crowd and hence advance reservations for tours were not essential. Possibly the second half of May is likely to be similar.
Most of the activities, many lodges, most of the cruises, the bus rides inside Denali National Park etc. start shutting down by mid September. And re-open by mid May or so.
Winter months are extremely cold. Best to stay put in a resort if visiting in winter. July is the rainiest month and it is bang in the middle of the peak season.
Dressing up
September was quite cool. While the heavy outer down jacket was not necessary, I still had to dress in a minimum of 2 layers during the day and 3 layers in the evenings. Wore thermals also on few days. Fleece jackets and trousers, windcheater, monkey cap, stole, thermals and wollen socks are a must. Plus hiking shoes(should be suitable for snow also if needed). On the Whittier cruise, I did feel the chill when standing on the open deck even though I was fully covered. Wind and proximity to the glaciers may have resulted in temperature drop.
The buildings/hotels are all heated up so no problem when indoors.
Vegetarian food options are limited
While vegetarian food was available, the choices were limited. My savior was Taco Bell and Subway. There are Indian restaurants in Anchorage and Fairbanks, but somehow, I was inclined to dine there only once every 3 days or so. At Denali National Park and on tours, vegetarian options were available.
Local/internal commute
I concluded that public buses in Anchorage or Fairbanks will not be suitable for tourists. There are taxis on call, private shuttles and Uber( which also takes time). It is best to rent a car. Indian driving license is valid in US for one year. Advisable to book online directly with the vendor(say Enterprise Rent-A-Car or Budget etc.) or through third party apps like Expedia/Uber. Additional insurance may be insisted upon especially for those not holding a US driving license/credit card.
Opt for additional insurance
The rental companies typically take the legally minimum required insurance but the renter is fully liable for all losses. I thought it made sense for me to take a separate policy covering damage or theft at the minimum. In the alternative, take a Loss Damage Waiver(LDW) with the vendor, which is more expensive. Potential liability to third party would still not be covered. Normally, insurance taken directly with the vendor is more expensive, as compared to one taken through third party apps such as Expedia.
Overall rental costs will exceed $100 a day
The rental costs are very reasonable at ~ $30-$50 per day for mid sized cars. But taxes and fees, almost double the cost. And with additional insurance, the total cost nudges towards the three figure mark.
I used google maps extensively while driving. Data usage is high and it is necessary to ensure you have an appropriate data connection.
What does a vacation in Alaska cost ?
The major cost items are air-fare, hotel, food, internal commute and tours. I travelled in the first 10 days of September.
Flights, train and hotels
- The flights from Des Moines to Fairbanks and Anchorage to Chicago cost me ~$2200 for 2 adults in premium economy. Including 3 checked in bags. The minimum return fare per adult between Anchorage and Seattle was normally around ~$550-600 with premium economy seats and 3 checked in bags.
- On hotels, I paid $252 per night in Fairbanks and $311 per night in Anchorage. For a couple without breakfast.
- The Adventure class travel by Denali Star train cost $215 per adult. Winter fare. Summer fares are higher by ~$60.
Car rentals, meals and tours
- Mid size car rental is ~$70-80 per day, without the additional insurance. Costs vary depending on season. I paid $114 per day without insurance for ‘Toyota Camry’ at Fairbanks and $75 per day for ‘Kia Forte’ at Anchorage. Gasoline cost $3.7 a gallon.
- Vegetarian meal in joints like Taco Bell/Subway cost $30-35 per couple, and $40-45 in Indian restaurant. A minimum of $110 is required per couple, even if Kitchenette in hotel room is used.
- Cost of tours varies with flightseeing tours costing more than land tours. Multiple day cruises will also cost more. For the Arctic tour, I paid $1178 and for the Whittier 4 hour cruise, $350 for 2 of us. Denali National Park was much lighter on the pocket at $49 per adult that included the bus ride inside the park!
I was spending a minimum of $500 per day, for a couple, on hotel rent, food and rental car. Then there are entry fees at various attractions, tips, beverages and other expenses.
Overall, I spend close to ~ $9.5k for the two of us. That’s over $1.2k for each night. All inclusive for 8 nights, 9 days. During the peak season, the cost will surely be little more.
Making payments
Cards(Debit, Credit, Forex) are accepted everywhere. Cash is not really necessary except for tipping and for payment of parking fee in one or two locations. At gas stations, only credit cards will work.
Trip cancellation Insurance
The tour/trip fees are generally non refundable within 7 weeks from date of journey. In few cases, the cancellation period is 30 days. No wonder trip cancellation insurance is being suggested when one makes a booking online. I did not take it but in hindsight, given that the weather in Alaska is often unpredictable, and if the bookings are being done well in advance, it is worth considering. This insurance applies only if trip is cancelled by the Insured. If cancellation is done by the operator, I guess refund will be given.
Should Alaska be visited at all?
Having travelled across US over the years, I can say without hesitation that Alaska is very different. Unspoiled, pristine yes but expensive possibly because of its remote location. The weather too can be unpredictable and can disrupt plans. Going so long a way to end up with cloudy skies/rain whether in Denali or Fairbanks or Whittier would be extremely disappointing. Getting to view wildlife too is a chance. But a probable good views of Northern Lights or bears in their natural habitat or whales jumping in the open sea or crystal clear lakes or snow capped mountains or views of the large glaciers .……are all worth the long journey. So definitely worth one visit.
What is extremely important is to temper your expectations, be selective in activities and enjoy whatever is on offer. If you enjoy being with the nature, Alaska has to be on your bucket list.
