Bandipur/Nagarahole National Parks

If I were to name my favourites spots for short breaks, Bandipur and Nagarahole National Parks will rank very high in the list. Driving from Bengaluru on a reasonably good state highway with a variety of restaurants, chance to do a bit of site seeing on the way(bird sanctuary, waterfalls, historic towns etc.) and a relaxed stay amidst nature, what more can anyone ask for?  

Located in southern Karnataka, and part of Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, Bandipur covers an area of ~875 sq. kms, and the adjoining Nagarahole National Park(renamed Rajiv Gandhi National Park) covers 650 sq. kms.  These two national parks, along with contiguous Wynaad(in Kerala),  Madumalai and Sathyamangalam (Tamil Nadu) forests, provide the endangered tigers one of the largest protected areas in the world. BRT Wildlife Sanctuary in Karnataka, adjoining Sathyamangalam forest, is also declared a Tiger Reserve.

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Bandipur or Nagarahole? Will you see the elusive tiger?

Nagarahole and Bandipur National Park are separated by Kabini river. Hard to say which is better and in my view, both serve the purpose of a 3 day retreat equally well. But yes, if you want to see tigers, neither Bandipur nor Nagarahole is the place to go, despite its high population of tigers! In my multiple visits, the nearest I have come to encountering a tiger in the wild is seeing the fresh pugmarks! And on another occasion, I could spot a leopard’s tail hanging from the branch of a tree, but only through the zoom lens of a camera. But the mere thought of a leopard being in the vicinity was exciting!

How to get to Bandipur

From Mysuru, drive to Gundlupet via Nanjangud and then onto Bandipur. The total distance is about 75 kms. 

How to get to Nagarahole

From mysuru, take NH275 to Hunsur and then turn left into Nagarahole road. Or take the Bogadi road and then Nagarahole road. The distance is about 90kms.

How to get to Kabini

From Mysuru, take the Mananthavady road. The distance is about 90kms.

Unlike Bengaluru, ring road in Mysuru is fully completed and there is no need to go through the town.  

Bengaluru to Mysuru

There are 3 routes to get to Mysore from Bengaluru, depending on where to live in Bengaluru. The Mysore road is the most popular one, a distance of about 140kms. Kanakpura Road is another option but there are very limited restaurants on the way. For those in Northern Bengaluru, another option is via Hassan highway, turning left after Yediyur towards Srirangapatnam, then onto Mysore. Overall driving distance will be more depending on start point. 

Overall, do budget about  6 hours. The road condition is generally good except when you near the resorts.

Plenty on the Mysore road and in Mysore. But after crossing Mysore, there are very limited choices though my favourite-tender coconut-is available here and there. 

Some of the known resorts in Bandipur include The Serai, Dhole’s Den and The Windflower Tusker Trials. All these are located close to Mangala village.

But the areas around Kabini reservoir, providing access to Nagarahole National Park, has the best choices-KAAV, The Bison, The Serai, Red Earth, Evolve Back(Orange County), Kabini River Lodge, and so on. They are also more expensive!

Another option is King’s Sanctuary(run by Jungle Lodges and Resorts) located in the northern part of Nagarahole.

There are plenty of other choices. It is better to stay in a resort nearby which has arranged for exclusive private safaris with pick up and drop(still run by the Forest department though). Else you will have to queue up and join the general safaris run by the forest department twice a day.

Check in normally around lunch time, followed by a safari in the afternoon.  If you miss lunch on day 1, you can check out after lunch on the day of departure. 

Overall, budget to spend upwards of INR 10k per night for a couple. Prices can be quite ludicrous at times, given the high demand. Safari cost will normally be extra but included in the tariff sometimes.

How many days at the minimum?

I think 2 Nights and 3 Days is ideal. That will give you option for 4 jeep safaris.

When is the best time to visit

Except the peak summer months and the rainy season, anytime is a good time. Effectively, October to April. But in summer, it is more likely you will see animals near watering holes. But the vegetation gets dry and is not very attractive. The forests look their best after a good rainy season. Once, even in October, it was quite dry as the rain gods had played truant that year.

Is Bandipur/Nagarahole worth visiting

Absolutely. Despite low chances of spotting the elusive tiger!

What to do in Bandipur/Nagarahole

Safari drives are the main attraction. A typical day starts with a safari ride around 6.30am that lasts over 2 hours. After breakfast, the rest of the day is free until the afternoon safari that starts around 4pm. Back in the resort by 6.30pm. 

The morning times after breakfast can be spent doing nature walks, or walk to villages nearby.   Another good option is  boating at Kabini and visiting the Kabini dam. Do check on availability of elephant safaris at Kabini. You can also make a trip to Gopalaswamy Betta. While I do not recommend this, many simply drive on the 2 main roads through Bandipur and one through Nagarahole. These roads cut through the dense forests, with the chance of spotting some birds and animals. But remember, stopping is not allowed, though unfortunately, many do. And also get off the vehicles.

The resorts will typically have games/sport to indulge in, mostly indoor but some outdoor as well, including swimming pool. Though not necessary, carry board games(such as chess,  monopoly), pack of cards  or card games and also books to read. Comes in handy if you decide to stay put in your resort. I usually avoid digital media though!

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What is a Safari drive like?

Safaris are normally conducted in a jeep or slightly larger vans(more like medium sized buses. Jeeps are more personal and provide the best view but also costs more though some of the vans without windows and just grills are also good. The driver cum guide normally provides a brief introduction, with Do’s and Dont’s, before heading into the forest. The tracks inside the forest can be a bit bumpy.

On the safari, consider yourself very lucky if you spot tigers, leopards or the sloth bears. What you are likely to spot are the Elephants, Gaur/Bison, birds like Peocock, Deer/Antelope, Langur, Wild Boar, Porcupine and Jackal/Hyaena. Other birds are more difficult to spot, unless you specifically look out for them. 

But just a drive through the dense forests is exciting by itself, irrespective of what you see. The mere expectation of seeing animals in their natural habitat keeps my adrenaline pumping! And spotting a tiger or a leopard is the ultimate joy.

Are safari jeeps safe?

So how safe are these safaris? I had an incident with a wild buffalo on a Kenya safari. So let there be no doubt there are risks. But by and large, if you stay in the vehicle and not make undue noise or movements when you encounter wild animals, you should be ok. I am sure the wild animals are quite used to the vehicle noise and do not perceive it as a threat.

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Himavad Gopalaswamy Temple

Within the core Bandipur National Park, Gopalaswamy Temple, dedicated to Lord Krishna, is located at an altitude of ~1500m. About 20kms from Gundlupet, you have to drive on NH181(the route to Bandipur) before taking a deviation at Sri Hangala. Apart from the Temple, the views from the top, overlooking Bandipur National Park, are very nice.  Often covered in mist.

The Temple may be visited while staying in Bandipur or on the way back, provided you check out after an early breakfast. 

The last time I went here, the condition of road in the last few kilometers was pretty bad. Few years back, one could drive all the way up. Now, private cars need to parked at the checkpost. Buses are run regularly from morning to afternoon. Budget atleast 2 hours for the trip from checkpost.