Travel into Bhutan
By Air is a very convenient option. Druk Air flies to Paro from Kolkata and the return fare is ~INR 15k in economy and ~INR30k in Business. It takes roughly an hour in each direction. Druk Air also flies to other locations such as Delhi and Bagdogra, besides Gaya. I was told that on the flight from Delhi, sometimes via Kathmandu, Mount Everest is visible on clear days.
Another private ariline, Bhutan Airlines also flies to Paro from Kolkata and the fares are similar to Druk Air fares. Bhutan Airlines has a daily flight while Druk Air flies 3 times a week. I chose Druk Air since it had a fleet size of 5 aircraft as against 2 of Bhutan Airlines. Thought their pilots would have more experience in landing at a challenging airport like Paro!
Driving in also an option
For those fond of driving and those travelling in a larger group, you can also consider driving to the border town in Bhutan, Phuentsholing. From Bagdogra, the nearest airport, the taxi fare is ~INR 3000( bargaining is always possible!). Taxis are available from Siliguri as well.
Cash is king
Bhutanese currency is pegged to Indian Rupee at an exchange rate of 1:1. Anyway, Indian currency is accepted in Bhutan but not all denominations. Best would be to carry denominations of 500, 100(old note appears to be preferred), 20, 10(again old note appears to be preferred). Avoid 2000 denomination notes.
Most of us are so accustomed to paying by credit/debit cards and wallets but in Bhutan, credit cards are accepted at very very few places, so make sure you carry adequate cash for your needs. Major foreign currencies like USD and Euros can be converted.
Taxi in Bhutan
There are accredited travel agencies and it is best to book through them. The rate per day varies and it is about Nu/INR 3,500 per day for mid sized cars such as Creta, Santa Fe, Innova etc. The downside is that even if the car is not used for a day, the rent needs to be paid. The flights to India depart Paro in the morning but even for the drop to the airport, full rent needs to be paid. On the other hand, the flights arrive in the morning which means one can complete Paro sightseeing and check into the hotel late in the afternoon. I was given to understand that the vehicle needs to be rented for the entire duration of stay, one cannot pick and choose days.
Local taxis are also available but most of the cars seemed small-like Wagon R. I was told the cost to get to Paro centre from airport would be about Nu/INR 200 or so. It is only a 10 minute ride.
Booking a car with travel agency is more expensive but bigger cars are available, they are more comfortable and are better maintained.
Indians are allowed to bring their cars into Bhutan though I was informed this may change soon as Bhutanese are not allowed to bring their cars into India. Permit is issued at Phuentsholing.
Itinerary and permits
Unless you are travelling to Bhutan for trekking, the 3-4 places that are generally frequented by tourists are Paro, Thimphu, Punakha via Dochula pass and Haa valley via Chelela pass. After careful thought, I decided to base myself in Paro as I had only 5 days. Thimphu could be covered in a day trip from Paro and I decided to skip Punakha as the main attraction in Punakha is a Dzong, other than river rafting perhaps. There is a Dzong in Paro also although Punakha Dzong is bigger. As for Dochula pass, I preferred Chelela pass near Paro which is the highest motorable pass in Bhutan, at an altitude of ~13,000 ft..
I think 4-5 days is good enough to get a sense of Bhutan. For those new to Buddhist culture, trips can also be planned around major festivals.
Indians can travel with approved photo ID
While I used my passport, my spouse carried the Voters ID card. When carrying the latter, there will no stamping by the immigration authorities like in passport and a permit is issued at the immigration counter in Paro. If carrying a passport, the permit is stamped on the passport. This permit is typically valid for Paro,Thimphu and Phuentsholing. If you plan to stay elsewhere, say Punakha or Haa valley, additional permit is required. I was told that for visiting Chele La pass and Haa valley without overnight stay, permit is not required.
The journey can be a bit more complex for nationals of countries other than SAARC countries. They must compulsorily book through a local travel agent and pay a specific price per day per person(USD 200/USD 250) that includes 3 star accomodation, food, car and entry fees to select places of tourist interest.
Indian nationals do not need a visa, can travel on their passports or voters ID card(see recent advisory on Bhutan government website where Aadhar is accepted for certain age categories) and can book hotels directly.
As per Bhutan government notification issued end 2019, Indians may also be required to spend a minimum amount per day from specified date. Do check for the latest requirements.
Accomodation
Paro has less choices for accommodation than Thimphu. Most of the ‘resorts’ do not have the kind of facilities we take for granted in India. For 3 star and above rated hotels/resorts, expect to pay INR 4-5k per night atleast on a double occupancy basis during the tourist season and check for the facilities available – fitness centre, spa etc. Staying in Paro town, as against a resort away from town, is advantageous as you have more choices for food and you have 3 nice cafes. There are a handful of 5 star hotels where the per night cost for standard room can be in excess of Nu/INR 30k.
Vegetarian Food
Indian food is readily available though usage of salt and spices is very limited. The one restaurant I liked was Chef’s Kitchen that served slightly spicier food. Among the Bhutanese food, I really liked Thukpa, kind of a rice porridge. There are 3 nice cafes on the main street in Paro – Champaca, Brioche and Mountain. The mountain café serves organic vegetarian food and food items cost less than soft drinks/coffee. I do find it a bit strange when a plate of plain rice costs ~Nu/INR 110, Dhal is 80, a cup of cappuchino is 150 and lemonade is 205! Average vegetarian meal for 2 can cost about Nu/INR 500 and about 700-800 if it is a buffet. Some restaurants serve ‘Thali”.
Shopping
The main street in Paro is full of souvenir shops. I found the shops on the left side, as one drives from airport into town, cheaper than those on the right. Unfortunately, the prices are not fixed and on all the items I purchased, I got discounts ranging from 20% to 50% of the initially quoted price.
Beads are quite famous here, comes in various shapes, sizes, color and stones-you could buy only beads or buy them in the form of bracelets, necklaces etc. Also, another interesting product is perfume in the form of cream and is available in various fragrances.
Dress code
When visiting temples and some monasteries, do ensure you are fully covered and avoid short sleeves, half pants etc.
