A trip to Ukraine is incomplete without visiting Chernobyl, the site of the world’s worst nuclear accident. The accident happened in April, 1986, over 33 years ago and is a grim reminder of what can happen when things go horribly wrong.
Chernobyl is located to the north of Kiev, at a distance of little less than 100kms. It takes about 2 hours to commute one way.
Chernobyl was one of the largest nuclear power plants in the world
Chernobyl had 4 nuclear powered reactors with 2 more under construction. There were plans to add more reactors. It was one of the largest nuclear power plants in the world. One of the reactors was also expected to feed electricity to the top secret Chernobyl 2 town, site of an advanced radar installation capable of detecting nuclear missiles launched at the then Soviet Union. The model town of Pripyat was built from scratch, about 2 kms from the power plant, close to the border with Belarus, to accommodate the staff/workers/scientists and their families, in addition to the Chernobyl town.
It was reactor no. 4 that exploded and caught fire on April 26, 1986, widely believed to have occurred due to inherent design flaws and human errors in conducting certain tests.
A media blackout was among the first steps taken
Soon after the explosion, the first decision of the Government was to impose media blackout! But the wind blew the airborne radioactive particles towards Northern Europe(that saved the city of Kiev in the south), it was no longer possible to hide the fact of explosion.
Clean up operations on a scale rarely seen
Massive clean up operations were launched, the soviet Air Force helped with aerial spraying of chemicals to counteract radiation, and over half a million military and civil personnel called liquidators were drafted to deal with the aftermath of the disaster. By December 1986, Reactor 4 was fully enclosed in a shelter of concrete that came to known as Sarcophagus. It had a life of 30 years and it was to prevent further spread of radioactive contamination. In 2017, a larger shelter was built that is equipped with mechanical robots to remove the Sarcophagus and the radioactive reactor debris so as to ensure their safe disposal. This is yet to be done.
50k evacuated in 3 hours
The day after the explosion, the entire town of Pripyat, that had a population of about 50k, was evacuated in 3 hours. The population, including small children, was exposed to very high levels of radiation for almost a day. A ghost town today and in total ruins, some of the buildings in Pripyat are still accessible. The tour guide carried photographs of how the town was just prior to the evacuation and we could see how it is today. It is surreal.
Pripyat is a fine example of what nature can do without humans
Without human intervention, nature has taken over, there is thick vegetation and sightings of wild animals have been reported. It is unclear when the buildings would be deemed to be unsafe but it may not be for long.
The radiation levels is some parts of Pripyat and on the equipments used for clean up is still high but overall, it is quite safe for the visitors if you are only spending few hours.
Chernobyl town has a population of ~2000 today, mainly comprising staff who are required to maintain the power plant.
The economic cost runs into billions
The Chernobyl clean up and the consequent economic costs run into billions of dollars, and the cost is still being incurred. Estimates on how many died also vary, though deaths in the immediate aftermath of the accident were not many. But with several thousands exposed to varying levels of radiation, indirect deaths would also easily run into many thousands.
Fully contained Reactor 4, Chernobyl 
The main avenue, Pripyat, Ukraine 
The supermarket, Pripyat, Ukraine 
Kindergarten school, a village near Chernobyl, Ukraine 
The unused radar installation, Chernobyl 2, Ukraine
About the Chernobyl tour
Chernobyl is located about 130kms north of Kiev and it takes about couple of hours to get there. Post the disaster, an exclusion zone was set up around the power plant, the inner one at a distance of 10 kms and the outer one at a distance of 30 kms. With specific approval, tourists are allowed to go right upto the gate to the power plant.
The tour normally proceeds with a stop at an abandoned village, lunch at Chernobyl town(vegetarian option is available!), visit to the power plant including reactor no 4 that is now entombed, walking round the ghost town of Pripyat, visit to radar installation in Chernobyl 2 town and finally, Chernobyl town.
Chernobyl 2 was a military town and the site of a secret radar installation called ‘Duga’ that was supposed to track multiple ballistic missiles launched with erstwhile Soviet Union as the target.
Overall, the tour lasts about 12 hours. And it costs ~INR10k per person on a group tour, including lunch.
On the way to Chernobyl, a short movie on the accident was played on the bus I took. Very informative. The guide also carried an album with pictures taken before and after the disaster. Quite a contrast.
One to two day tour?
Chernobyl is one of the most popular tours out of Kiev and there are quite a few tour operators. The itinerary can vary slightly but should include the abandoned village, power plant, Pripyat, Chernobyl 2 and Chernobyl. I booked through my hotel and I would tend to think most hotels in Kiev will have a tie up with some operator. Few operators offer a 2 day tour with overnight halt at a nearby hotel. While 2 days means a more leisurely and a more detailed tour of Chernobyl and Pripyat, I believe one day tour is good enough to give you an overall sense of the magnitude of the accident and its aftermath.
Original passports are required at check points
Original passports have to be carried in person. The tour operator will obtain the necessary approvals.
Should Chernobyl be visited
My view is a resounding yes. But go with a view to learn more about this man made disaster and then reflect upon it.
