Travelling into Egypt
Cairo is the main and the largest international airport. The other two major international airports are at Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh. Cairo is well connected to other parts of the world while the other two airports have fair connectivitiy to Middle East and Europe. Depending on the itinerary, one can plan to fly in and fly out of any of these 3 airports.
Egyptair flies directly from Mumbai to Cairo with a journey time of about 6 hours. But this also meant I had to return to Cairo. Other good option is to fly via middle east. In such a case, it should be possible to fly back from say Hurghada. No need to return to Cairo.
Cairo airport to city centre
The distance between Cairo city centre and the international airport is a little over 20 kms. I did not find any prepaid taxi counter, not sure if I missed it. But I knew what it costs and bargained with one official white taxi driver, though the taxi had a meter. But this is always not very pleasant! The journey to my hotel near Tahrir square took about 40 minutes.
I paid below USD 5, inclusive of a generous tip, for the taxi from Cairo airport to my hotel near Tahrir Square.
A better option may be to book private cars online or check with your hotel. They will be more expensive but cars will be reasonably well maintained. If you have already booked a car for sightseeing, better to let them pick you up.
There are shuttle buses(more of a large van) as well that would be much cheaper but you need to ensure they will get close to your destination.
Cars are available for rent as well but that is not really an option for first time visitors. Cairo Metro does not connect airport yet.
Travel in Cairo
Given the heat and dust, I chose to hire a medium sized private car. It costs about USD 50 per day. Other options are Uber, call taxis, official white or black & white taxis(do ensure meter is switched on or else agree the price before getting in) and Metro.
Travel within Egypt
Air
The tourist spots are all connected by air. There are local carriers such as Nile Air and Air Cairo who may offer cheaper tickets as compared to Egyptair but all these airlines are small, with less than 10 aircraft. Hence I chose Egyptair which is also a star alliance member. But for those who are finicky, Egypt Air too does not have an impeccable safety record.
I flew Egyptair from India and in Egypt, from Hurghada to Cairo. The domestic fares were quite reasonable but better to book ahead of time.
Rail
The most popular trains run between Cairo and Aswan, via Luxor. Alexandria too is connected to Cairo by rail. The trains are run by Egyptian National Railways but the overnight deluxe sleeper trains from Cairo to Aswan are run by a private company El Watania. This is the most convenient way to travel from Cairo to Luxor/Aswan(or return).
Abu Simbel, Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh are not connected by rail.
The trains run by Egyptian National Railways between Cairo and Aswan does not have sleeper berths, only reclining seats-airline style-in first class. But these are much cheaper than the sleeper train.
You can book tickets for sleeper train online at this website.
https://www.wataniasleepingtrains.com/
For foreigners, it costs USD 80 for a bed in double cabin while single cabin costs USD 120. Quite comfortable and the scenery in the morning near Luxor is great. Dinner and breakfast is complementary. Luckily, vegetarian option is available and the food is just about ok. Overall, a bit overpriced but maybe reasonable considering the savings from overnight hotel stay.
You can book tickets online at the website of Egyptian National Railways.
I have read several reviews of trains in Egypt running late. While my train was late by only 30 minutes, if you are looking at connections (e.g. train from Aswan/Luxor to Cairo and return flight home), do make sure to keep a big margin.
Buses
There are regular bus services between cities but given the distances, it may not be very convenient except for shorter journeys like Luxor-Hurghada, Cairo-Alexandria and Aswan-Abu Simbel. I did not use buses at all.
Private car with driver is a great option
To me, an AC car with driver was the most convenient option to move around. And not really expensive considering I was travelling with spouse and minor son. I preferred to travel by private cars in Cairo and from Luxor to Hurghada(fare of ~100USD) and in Hurghada. Daily rent(for 8 hours) varies but averaged USD 50 for a medium sized sedan.
The driver acts as a guide as well. Not as knowledgeable as a regular guide but enough to let you know what to see and what to skip.
I did not consider driving on my own as in countries like Egypt, travelling with a local person is always helpful.
Best time to visit
Egypt experiences very mild winters from November to March(average temperatures below 25 degrees celsius) and hot summers(maximum temperatures above 40 degrees celsius) from May to September. There is hardly any rainfall. Needless to add, winter is the best time but first half of April and second half of October are also good. I actually travelled in the first half of April.
As with any other tourist destination, peak times also mean higher cost. If you are cost conscious, try and avoid December and January.
Where to stay
Cairo
Cairo offers plenty of choices for all budgets. Ideal location is Central Cairo which is around Tahrir Square (sometimes referred to as Downtown Cairo) but if you prefer a view of Pyramids from the hotel, then head to Giza area. I chose Ramses Hilton for its location, especially views of the river Nile and more importantly, for its ‘Maharaja’ Indian restaurant. That it was within walking distance to Egyptian museum was a bonus.
In Giza, there are some every nice hotels/resorts with views of the Pyramids but I think there is nothing to see if you wish to step out for a walk, unlike central Cairo.
Be prepared to spend upwards of USD 100 per night for 4/5 star accommodation.
Hurghada
Hurghada offers a variety of options from hotels to resorts to villas and apartments. There are resorts with private beach, and with facilities for water sports, diving and snorkeling. Most resorts offer multiple restaurants and you don’t really need to step out for meals if you are staying in a resort. If you are a vegetarian, you may as well take a package inclusive of breakfast and dinner or even lunch. It works out quite ok in terms of cost. So take your pick based on your budget.
Some of the resorts do not allow children, they only admit adults.
I booked a resort with a private beach and inclusive of breakfast, lunch and dinner. You can pack some stuff from the hotel if you are out the whole day.
Hurghada has a large number of trendy bars and restaurants serving cuisine from around the world. For those of you not staying in a resort or wishing to try newer places, better to stay closer to town. Maybe the Marina or downtown.
Again budget for upwards of USD 100 per night for a comfortable room.
Vegetarian food
Egyptian cuisine is largely meat based. Vegetarian food is not very easily available and in restaurants, I was not too sure whether segregation(of cooking utensils) is followed everywhere. That is why I stuck to restaurants in bigger hotels that normally have fair bit of vegetarian options. Apart from Indian food, Mediterranean and Italian vegetarian options are available. I did not taste any of the local cuisine except when it was part of a buffet.
In Cairo, I booked at Hilton that had an Indian restaurant. Great choice in hindsight as my spouse was unwell for a day and hot tomato soup, steamed rice with hot dal and plain yogurt saved the evening!
Sticking to hotels also meant packing some food from the hotel when it was not convenient to come back for lunch. This is where my driver was extremely useful, telling me what may be available and what not.
On cruises, vegetarian choices are available though in my case, I thought the food could have been healthier and tastier. But the food was good enough to survive!
What about safety?
Tourism is a big industry in Egypt. Unfortunately, there have been threats to tourists and tourist spots because of social and political unrests. Most recent was 2017 Hurghada attack. So caution needs to be exercised.
Beyond that, normal precautions that you would anyway take elsewhere in the world. Always secure your valuables and be vigilant. Avoid talks with strangers and lonely areas. There are talks of scams but I did not face any difficulty.
Language
Arabic is the official language but English too is spoken and understood, at all the tourist places.
Currency
Egyptian pound. One EGP is equal to ~5 INR. Credit cards are accepted. USD also. Local currency is required-for tips, and small purchases such as souvenirs.
Visa
Indian passport holders require a prior visa. Indian passport holders are not eligible for eVisa or visa on arrival. The difficulty is that the documents have to be submitted at Mumbai consulate or Delhi embassy. There are no collection centres elsewhere to my knowledge. I applied through an agent. Took about 10 days but if you personally apply in Mumbai or Delhi, you can get the visa in 2-3 days itself.
Touts and Tips
Wage levels in Egypt are stated to be low. There are many who depend on tourism for earnings. The difficulty is that every foreigner is seen to be a rich person! Everywhere I went, touts appeared from nowhere! And I had an unpleasant experience right after my arrival in Cairo.
While was getting into the taxi at Cairo airport, a female travel guide also got into the front seat! Unsolicited. By the time I could protest, the taxi was already out of the airport. The driver explained I did not have to pay anything extra, but could I please hear her out during the drive to the hotel? She tried to sell all kinds of sightseeing services as a guide but I politely declined. But worse was to follow.
At the hotel, while I was checking in, I firmly told her to leave but she staring crying loudly, saying how poor she was and could I give her a tip? I did not wish to but by then, my pre-arranged driver arrived and he requested me to pay her a small tip. I was taken aback but relented, handed over a tip and she finally left me in peace. What an experience!
After that, I made up my mind not to make eye contact with any of the touts. This is also what my driver advised. It was not easy but I managed fairly well. Everywhere I went – the Pyramids at Giza and Saqqara, the railway station in Giza and Aswan, Luxor cruise terminal, Cairo streets – touts would approach me to start a conversation, but I stayed firm to my resolve. But whenever my driver was with me, no one would approach me!
Some of touts even tried to strike a conversation in Hindi language! It is amazing how some of them can figure out one’s nationality.
Thankfully, at least in Hurghada, the touts did not make any appearance!
Tips
Tips(or ‘Baksheesh’ as some locals say, a term many of us would be familiar with) are expected everywhere though it is not compulsory. In most cases, I would simply round off the bill amount, but not exceeding 10%. For the guide, car driver and cruise, I was a bit more generous but gave a tip only at the end.
Carry adequate small change in local currency for tipping.
Dress
Conservative dressing is expected when visiting temples and mosques. But as you move away from Cairo, there is less focus on what one is wearing. Even then, the general advise is be conservative when visiting monuments or when travelling. But on a cruise or sea resort town like Hurghada, there is lot more flexibility.
Entry fees
At every monument, entry fees is payable. There is general entry fee and then additional fee for the interiors such as entry inside a pyramid, the mummy house at Egyptian museum, tomb of Tutankhamum at Valley of Kings and so on.
Overall, I spent about EGP 3500 per person. Thats little less than USD 250 or INR 17k. About EGP 1000 was included in the Nile cruise price. A discount of 50% is available for children below 12 years(original ID is sometimes asked for) and for students above 12 years carrying the original student ID card.
Check out this link for the entry fees at various locations. Can’t say if this will be updated on real time basis but gives a fair overview.
https://www.egypttailormade.net/en/blog/entrance-fees.html
Egypt has experienced high inflation
Egypt has experienced inflation in double digits over the last few years, spiking to above 20% in 2017 and 2018. Seems to be stabilizing in 2020 but this is the reason I have not specifically indicated estimated costs in many places.
The high inflation locally has also meant depreciation of Egyptian pound against major currencies. The EGP was officially devalued in 2016. For the tourists, the continuous depreciation offsets to some extent the increase in local costs.
What else?
Download maps of all tourist destinations you are visiting. You can also request your guide for printed maps.
A guide is very useful in Cairo but if you hire a car, the driver will double up as a guide. On a cruise, a guide is anyway available and Hurghada does not require a guide.
The tourist places have vendors selling variety of souvenirs. But few souvenirs if you feel like helping them, but do bargain on the price! But quality may have to be discounted.
My hotel in Cairo did not allow me to carry portable heater to the room. Had carried this for heating ready to eat food packets. I had to deposit it and collect it at the time of checkout.
Check for photography restrictions at the monuments you plan to visit. At most places, fee has be paid for the regular cameras. Mobile phones are allowed though, free of cost.
Consider the dry heat and in some places, moderate dust in the air. Plenty of water and citrus based beverages plus some kind of a scarf or bandana to wrap around the mouth and nose(required only occasionally). Sea side is different of course.
For more information, check out this government of Egypt websites
https://egymonuments.gov.eg/en/
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