Ladakh is the highest altitude plateau region in India, often called the cold desert for its minimal annual rainfall and cold weather. Ladakh incorporates parts of Himalaya and Karakoram mountain ranges and the upper Indus river valley. The southern extension of the Karakoram range is called the Ladakh range that dominates the landscape in central Ladakh. Both Khardung La and Chang La passes are located in the Ladakh range.
Temperature remains well below freezing all 24 hours
Ladakh in winter is among the coldest places in India. The capital city of Leh and other scenic areas such as Khardung La pass and Pangong lake witness temperatures between -10 degrees Celsius to -40 degrees Celsius during winter. No wonder very few tourists venture into Ladakh between November and February.
But in my case, I specifically travelled to Leh in February to experience the frosty conditions and see the frozen Pangong lake, besides trying to hone my basic photography skills. For avid photographers, Ladakh in winter is a great destination.
Meeting of Indus and Zanskar rivers at the sangam, Ladakh Indus river in Leh plateau, Ladakh Indus river in Leh plateau, Ladakh The climb to Khardung La, Ladakh The frozen Pangong lake, Ladakh, India Ladakh’s lifeline-the Yak
Ladakh is awesome in winter and devoid of crowds
If you are appropriately dressed, there is no reason to avoid Ladakh in winter. It is actually enjoyable though mobility is marginally restricted. Read more on dressing up for the cold weather.
Additionally, because of the cold, there are hardly any tourists and I like that. But yes, most restaurants in Leh and almost all outside in tourist places are closed, restricting choice. While hotel rooms in Leh are available at 50% or less than the cost in summer, finding decent accommodation or even food outside Leh is not easy.
I restricted myself to making day trips from Leh.
Leh reachable only by air in winter
The only way to travel to Leh in winter is by air. There are daily morning flights from Delhi to Leh. Travelling from Bengaluru meant I had to stay overnight in Delhi.
I paid extra for a window seat as the views from the aircraft are amazing as it flies over Himachal Pradesh and then Ladakh.
Views from the plane, Ladakh Views from the plane, Ladakh Views from the plane, Ladakh View of runway at Leh airport, Ladakh
Acclimatisation is very important
Given the high altitudes, it is very important to allow your body to acclimatise to the lower levels of oxygen in the air. I arrived in the morning and fully rested on Day 1, making sure I was adequately hydrated. On Day 2, I did local sightseeing without going to higher altitude. Read more on coping with high altitudes.
What to see in Ladakh in winter
Travel does get a bit restricted in winter due to absence of quality accommodation outside Leh. Ladakh is all about nature and the mighty mountains in winter. Some of things you can see or do(other than local sightseeing in Leh):
Day trips
- Sangam(meeting point for Indus and Zanskar rivers). In winter, both the rivers are frozen. Read more on ‘what to do in Leh’.
- Khardungla pass(among the highest motorable pass in the world at 17,980 ft.). Permit is required. Read more on ‘drive to Khardung La’.
- Pangong Lake(highest saline water lake in the world). If travelling from Leh, you will cross Chang La pass at 17,700 ft. DRDO runs a research station here, the highest in the world. Permit is required. Read more on day trip to Pangong lake.
- Hemis national park – snow leopards are occasionally visible. But this is more of a chance than a certainty. My driver told me snow leopards have not been spotted this winter and hence I decided to skip.
- Meditate in the Monasteries. Lack of crowd means tranquility. Near Leh, Spituk, Shey, Thiksey, Chimrey and Hemis are well known. Others like Phugtal and Lamayuru are a bit far. Plan to visit one or maybe 2 monasteries. There is actually no need to go out of the way. Ladakh is a land of monasteries and you will find more than one nearby, whichever route you take.
Longer trips
- Nubra valley(Sand dunes and hot springs). Day trip is a bit tight. Permit is required.
- Siachin base camp-opened up for tourists only in October 2019. Day trip from Leh is not possible. I was not sure about good quality accommodation nearby. Permit is required.
- Tso Moriri – Another beautiful lake about 6 hours drive from Leh, near Leh-Manali highway. Permit is required.
- Trekking – the famous Chader trek happens in winter, starting point is near Chilling. Average altitude is above 10,000 ft. Also, trek from Siachin base camp to Kumar Post was opened up in October 2019, a distance of ~60kms, climbing from 12,000 ft. to 15,000 ft. This is obviously not for a normal tourist. I am sure there will be more trails.
Motor Bike riding is very popular in Ladakh though I hardly saw any riders on the roads. No doubt, winter is a bit more risky.
Ladakh celebrates few festivals, but none in winter.
Hemis monastery, Ladakh Shey monastery, Ladakh Chimrey monastery, Ladakh
Permits for travel to Ladakh
Certain areas of Ladakh have been notified as protected/restricted. This includes Khardung La/Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri and Siachen base camp.
Indian citizens(other than citizens of Jammu and Kashmir/Ladakh and children below 12 years of age) and foreigners are required to obtain ‘Inner Line Permit’(ILP)/’Protected Area Permit’(PAP). Siachen base camp does not figure in the online portal as yet so I guess one may have to apply at the DC’s office.
Permits can be obtained online or obtained from DC’s office in Leh.
Read more on obtaining permits for certain areas in Ladakh.
Good accomodation unlikely outside Leh in winter
Accommodation outside Leh is mainly homestays and smaller hotels. I was told only Nubra valley may have some decent accommodation but I decided not to take any chance. Beyond the bigger hotels in Leh, availability of flush toilets and heaters is uncertain elsewhere. I stuck to Leh, making day trips to Khardung La pass and Pangong lake. Kept one day buffer and that turned out to be a good decision.
Summary of tips for travel to Ladakh in winter
- Acclimatization is very important. Rest for the first 2 days after arrival in Leh.
- Quality of accommodation outside Leh may not be good, stick to Leh if you are fussy about facilities as I am.
- Do adequate research before travel as internet connectivity may not be good.
- Keep one or two days of buffer as avalanches/heavy snowfall can block roads.
- Obtain permits online prior to travel.
- Wear appropriate attire to combat temperatures of upto -20 degrees Celsius that you will encounter during daytime.
- Avoid self drive unless you are familiar with driving in snow/ice covered roads and use of snow chains.
- Carry adequate cash. Taxis have to paid in cash unless you prebook online or engage hotel taxi. Almost all expenses outside Leh will likely be in cash.
Here is the link for a separate post on travel pointers.