Who has to apply
Certain areas of Ladakh have been notified as protected/restricted. This includes Khardung La/Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri and Siachen base camp. I am sure there is a list of all places that require a permit but if you are going closer to Line of Control, it is likely a permit will be required.
Indian citizens(other than citizens of Jammu and Kashmir/Ladakh and children below 12 years of age) and foreigners are required to obtain ‘Inner Line Permit’(ILP)/’Protected Area Permit’(PAP). Siachen base camp does not figure in the online portal as yet so I guess one may have to apply at the DC’s office.
Best to apply for permit online
The best way to obtain the permits is online at the below internet address:
It is very easy process though the portal. Once I keyed in the basic details, the portal displayed 8 ‘circuits’(or routes) that require a permit. I made sure I applied for all the places I planned to visit as the fee is INR 500 for each application, irrespective of the number of places to be visited or the number of times you wish to visit a place within the dates of travel.
If travelling in a group, the names of all the persons in the group can be entered in the same application-however, ID details of each person would have to be indicated.
Once online payment was made(credit cards are also accepted with a small charge), the receipt(not the permit though) was mailed to my eMail ID. To print the permit, I had to access portal again using the ‘apply permit’ and then ‘print permit’ option.
The portal is simple and not sophisticated enough to allow edits once details are submitted. For example, if ID no. is incorrect or you have not chosen all the places to visit. In such cases, the only option is to reapply, maybe under a different ID. Once payment is made, there is no refund.
When to apply
The permit is available immediately on payment. So you can even apply a day or two before departure. If you do not wish to pay online, you can also pay at the DC’s office in Leh.
You can also apply for permit at local DC’s office
Permits can also be obtained in Leh from the DC’s office. Your hotel or the taxi driver or travel agent will get it for you. I am told the permits are issued the same day if submitted in the morning or the following day, if submitted in the afternoon. You will have to pay a little extra though. Do note that Central Government offices are closed on Saturdays and Sundays. And other public holidays. Plan travel accordingly you do not want to spend additional days in Leh.
Carry adequate hard copies
Carry extra hard copies of the permit as you have to submit hard copies at the checkposts(1 for Khardung La and 2 for Pangong Tso). Extra copies are also handy in case asked for at any checkpost.
Original photo ID(with couple of copies) should be carried for all, even if travelling in a group.
Online permits may not have to be stamped
The online permits are not stamped while the ones issued at DC’s office are. There are no instructions on whether the online permits have to be stamped at the DC’s office. Logically, given that many visitors travel by road and Leh may not be their first destination, or may not be visited at all, there should be no requirement for stamping. My hotel or the taxi driver did not say stamping is required. My driver submitted the unstamped online permits at the check posts and no questions were asked.
Where to submit permits?
My taxi driver submitted copies of the permit at South Pullu for Khardung La and at Kharu and Tangtse for Pangong Tso. Otherwise, I did not notice any specific signboards that said ‘submit permits here’. The permit too does not say where they have to be submitted. While travelling to Pangong Tso, I passed through multiple checkposts. Nobody checked for the permits. But yes, I have been told that visitors have been sent back from certain check posts for lack of proper permit or lack of original ID.
