Varanasi. Kashi, Benaras. Spiritual city. City of temples. Holy city. City that never dies. One of the world’s oldest continually inhabited city. The city of death(where death is welcomed). City of music. Wow! I do not know if there is any other city in the world that is known by so many nomenclatures. Call it whatever you like, there is no doubt that Varanasi is an extraordinary place with a unique charm.
A story behind almost everything in old Varanasi
Every building, every temple, every Shivalinga…..has a story behind it, much of it intertwined with Hindu mythology. Whether you believe it or not is your choice but there is no doubt millions of Hindus do. Varanasi is stated to be Rudravasa, the city of Lord Shiva. Keeping mythology aside, on the basis of excavations made, Varanasi is believed to be ~3000 years old. It rose to prominence during the Upanishadic period around 800BCE and has maintained it standing since then as a major centre for learning, spirituality, arts, culture and commerce. For those interested, there are quite a few books available on the history of Varanasi. I read one but it was so full of mythology and based on events that are believed to have occurred well before recorded history that I felt I was reading a story book.
A unique, mystical city
Varanasi is like any other Indian city and yet very different. The 88 ghats set in a semi circle on the banks of river Ganga, the soulful ‘Subah-e-Banaras’ morning aarti and Sandhya aarti, the musical heritage, the chaotic streets, the peaceful boat rides with panoramic views of the ghats, the incessant open burning of dead bodies on Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats, the numerous ashrams/guesthouses offering yoga and meditation, Mukti Bhawan where people come to die, the traditional Kushti akharas, the presence of sadhus on the ghats often seen smoking chillam, delicious street food…..Varanasi just does not to cease to amaze.
To truly experience the mystique of Varanasi, a contemplative mind is a must. As is a little understanding of the traditional Hindu customs and beliefs.
Top experiences in Varanasi
1. The ghats of Varanasi
Varanasi is all about its ghats and there is no doubt that they stand out. There are 88 ghats today and each of them has some significance and its own history. Most of these ghats are used for bathing and performing religious rituals while 2 are exclusively for cremation. Set in a semi circle, one end is the historical Assi ghat and the other end is the newly built Namo ghat, just beyond Malviya bridge. It is possible to walk the entire length of the ghats and I think it worthwhile to cover a shorter portion by walk and the longer stretch by boat.
Many of the ghats(not all) have bathing areas, docking area for the boats, toilet facility, one or more temples and other historical buildings. Some have been renovated over the years but don’t try looking for a spick and span ghat. At times, I just had to look away. Most of the ghats are not directly accessible by car. One has to park a bit away, and either walk, take an auto if available or the manual cycle rickshaws.
Assi ghat
I was advised to visit Assi ghat for the Ganga aarti as it is relatively less crowded as compared to Dashashwamedh ghat. The aarti takes place in the morning as well as evening and is the same as the one at Dashashwamedh ghat. I reached Assi ghat aroud 5.30 pm, about an hour before the start. Even then, the seating arena was over 75% full! The aarti lasted about 30 minutes and if one is busy clicking pictures or watching the boats passing by, it would appear to be another simple Hindu ceremony.
Witnessing the aarti has become a must do for every tourist. It is nothing spectacular but if one is fully involved, it can be a deeply spiritual experience.
Dashashwamedh ghat
Stated to the holiest of holy ghats, this is the top attraction in Varanasi. It was extremely crowded in the evening when I visited but it was probably more than the usual crowd because of the ongoing Maha Kumbh Mela in Prayagraj. The famous Ganga aarti takes place here, the alternate being Assi ghat.
Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats
Two thirds of the cremations happen at Manikarnika ghat(~100 per day) and the rest at Harishchandra ghat and other places. I was told they operate 24/7 and on the way out of Harishchandra ghat, I saw dead bodies lined up for cremation. If you are the type to indulge in inner contemplation, there is no better place than these two ghats. Near the Harishchandra ghat one evening, I saw several sadhus enjoying their chillums!
Namo ghat
This is a new ghat and is unlike other older ghats. I got the impression it is built for tourists and families with kids. There are some nice sculptures with activities for kids and the ghat stretches to the other side of Malviya bridge. There are food stalls as well though I did not particularly relish what I had. At night, when lit, the rail cum road Malviya bridge looks fantastic, especially when a train passes by.
Follow the links to read more about the ghats of Varanasi.
https://varanasismartcity.gov.in/about/ghats
https://vdavns.com/gallery/ghats-of-varanasi
Apart from the above, few other other ghats such as Darbhanga, Chet Singh, Scindia, Bhonsale and Panchganga are very scenic. Unless one is in Varanasi for a week or so, one will have to be selective about which ghats to visit. As I have stated earlier, all these ghats, except the new ones, have history behind it.
2. Temples of Varanasi
There are more than 2000 temples in Varanasi. Many of them are small and located on the ghats or the narrow by lanes of the old city. But the one that no visitor to Varanasi generally skips is the Kashi Vishwanath temple.
Kashi Vishwanath temple
The temple is located near Lalita and Manikarnika ghat. The number of visitors to the temple has increased dramatically since the opening of the Kashi Vishwanath corridor. Also known as Golden temple, it is dedicated to Lord Shiva.
I visited in February 2025 when the Maha Kumbh Mela was ongoing at Prayagraj. Online bookings had been suspended but the travel desk at the hotel where I was staying had a solution. Get to the temple before sunrise by boat! Which is what I did. I got off at Manikarnika ghat and walked past couple of pyres burning even at that early hours of the day.
Took 45 minutes from the ghat to the temple
I first had to deposit my shoes and then walk up the stairs to the corridor connecting the ghat to the temple. My guide took my mobile so I did not have to deposit it. The path was circuitous and long, designed to hold hundreds of devotees in one lane for orderly movement. After 2 security checks, and ~45 minutes from the time I deposited my shoes, I entered the temple that holds one of twelve Jyotirlingas.
Note the position of Jyotirlinga while in the queue
A board outside the temple indicated the exact position of the Jyortirlinga inside the temple. The temple is small and one is not allowed to enter inside. Luckily, when my turn came, one of the priests inside pointed at the Jyotirlinga. I did overhear a few who said they did not see the Jyotirlinga! Not surprising, as by the time you peer through a narrow door and your eyes gets used to the interior, you are pushed. And if you are pouring milk at the designated spot, the attention gets diverted and the chances of not being able to view the Jyotirlinga are high. The darshan lasted just a few seconds, as is the case with all famous temples in India.
Don’t miss the VR show
The corridor looks lovely, though it is no match for the grandeur of Mahakal corridor at Ujjain. The dome of Gyanvapi mosque looms next to the temple wall. The VR show (called Durlabh darshan) on the temple was very informative and enjoyable. It cost INR 150 per person and lasted little less than 15 minutes.
Great viewpoint near Nepal temple
The viewpoint near the Pashupatinath temple provided a panoramic view of the Ganga river and the adjoining ghats. Lovely sight in the morning rush hour, with the river overflowing with boats.
I was pleasantly surprised to see that the toilets inside the corridor were quite clean. The only unpleasant aspect was collection of shoes as the shoes stand is not easily accessible on the way out. I had to slide under the railings as the security did not allow me to climb over! No wonder many leave their footwear behind.
Most surprising aspect was the presence of a food court in the corridor. Looks like temple visits are no longer just about praying.
One can book online
Entry is free is you are prepared to stand in queue. Else, online sugam darshan can be booked for a fee of INR 250 per person(above 12 years of age). One can also book for various puja’s online. You will find more details on the official website.
Other temples
If you are a bit religious, the suggestion is to visit Kaal Bhairava temple first, before visiting other temples in Varanasi. Legend has it that Kaal Bhairava is the guardian of Varanasi and one should take his permission to stay in Varanasi.
There are plenty of other temples but I only visited Kashi Vishwanath temple.
Check this link for a listing of important temples by the Uttar Pradesh Government.
3. Walk along the ghats and by-lanes of old city
A walking tour is a must to experience the history and culture of this ancient city. There are few options available online with different start and end points. Or one can engage a freelancer like I did. It cost INR 3k for about 2.5 hours. I started from Godowalia Chauraha and moved along several narrow, winding by-lanes before going through a very narrow door and emerging at the top of Dashashwamedh ghat. It was dusk with the lights just coming on and the first view of the ghat was ‘wow’. It was an amazing colorful sight which the pictures cannot fully convey. Probably, the suddenness of the change from the narrow lanes to the vast open space added to the beauty. From Dashashwamedh ghat, I walked past the BrijRama palace(now a hotel) to Harishchandra ghat via Banaras and Narada ghat, a distance of about 1km.
The presence of sadhus is enlivening
Several sadhus had pitched tents on the ghats. There is no doubt the presence of sadhus, either ash smeared or in saffron robes and engaged in spiritual practices or rituals or simply cooking their food makes the ghats come alive. Some of them were also interacting with general public. The atmosphere at Harishchandra ghat was somber with 4-5 bodies being cremated. Nearby under a shelter, sadhus were smoking chillum.
Very interesting walk
I must have walked more than couple of kilometers through the narrow by-lanes of the old city. The old age of the buildings was quite apparent, though few had undergone renovations. Many of the houses had small temples(windows were generally kept open). I also sighted quite a few hotels/guest houses that are accessible only by foot and I also happened to pass through few open kitchens attached to small restaurants. The less said about these kitchens, the better it is!
All in all – the hidden corners, the historical architecture, seemingly crumbling buildings with cables hanging all over, vibrant street life, inviting local food(I only tried Malaiyo on the insistence of my guide), colorful shops selling variety of stuff, piles of uncleared garbage at certain places, cows on the roads, lively ghats, the burning pyres- all made for a unique walking experience in one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited city.
4. Boating on river Ganga
Another activity that is stated to be ‘must do’ and I fully agree. The early morning boat ride, just before and after sunrise turned out to be a magical experience. I started from Namo ghat towards Lalita ghat well before sunrise. But the city was awake. There were plenty of people along the ghats taking a dip in the river, performing the usual rituals and washing clothes as well! A kind of eerie silence prevailed despite the activity. On the boat too, everyone simply watched silently.
Fantastic view of the ghats from the boat
After visiting Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the boat took me to Harishchandra Ghat ghat before taking a U-turn and returning to Namo Ghat. From a distance, the ghats of Varanasi with its temples and historical buildings look like a page from fantasy book. The fort/palaces at Darbhangha ghat , Manmandir ghat, Bhonsale ghat and Chet Singh ghat, the numerous temples and some every ancient structures kept my eyes riveted on the ghats. The other side of the river was just a wide expanse of sand and I am not sure why people were actually getting off there.
I think Varanasi has among the most beautiful riverfronts in India.
There are quite a few options for a boat ride. Morning and evening hours are the best but also the most crowded. One can join a group tour or opt for a private tour. Online bookings are also available. It should cost a minimum of INR 3k per person, for couple of hours at best.
5. Sarnath
A small town located within 30 minutes drive from Varanasi, Gautama Budhha is believed to have delivered his first sermon here after attaining enlightenment. Another reason for Sarnath’s fame is that the Ashoka Chakra, our National Emblem and which also finds a place on the Indian National flag, was taken from Ashoka’s pillar(the Lion Capital) at Sarnath.
Key attractions include Dhamek stupa complex, where the excavated ruins(including Ashoka’s Pillar) and the Dhamek Stupa are located. The Stupa is also visible from outside. Mulagandha Kuti Vihar, a Buddhist monastery cum temple is a lovely building with restored frescos. Next to it is a large bronze bell(called world peace bell) and the park where Buddha delivered the first sermon.
Dont miss the museum
The Archaeological Museum is a must visit not only the excavated artifacts displayed, but also to view the Lion Capital. Other attractions include Thai temple with a huge statue of Buddha, the Garden of Wisdom and Chaukhandi Stupa. Sarnath is being developed as a tourist attraction and the government has provided attractive push carts to vendors selling a variety of stuff, including souvenirs, on Dharmapala road, just outside the Dhamek complex. But beware, the quality may not be up to mark.
Half a day required for Sarnath
Half a day(about 4-5 hours) is good enough for Sarnath and I think it is worth a visit. The various attractions are spread over a small area and can theoretically be covered by foot but Chaukhandi Stupa is a bit away. A large map placed near the entry to Dhamek Stupa complex can help in planning. There are few restaurants in the area to take a break. I chose to have tender coconut water and it cost INR 150! When I asked why it is so expensive, the vendor replied they import it from Bengaluru!
6. Other attractions I did not have time for
- Benaras Hindu University which is Asia’s largest residential university(I would have just driven around the campus);
- Ramnagar Fort(can be visited by boat also) but it is in a state of disrepair;
- Kusti Akharas(wrestling pits) that train wrestlers in the Indian style mud wrestling;
- Musical tour – Kabir, Tulsidas, Premchand, Suryakant Tripathi Nirala, Birju Maharaj, Ustad Bismillah Khan, Pandit Ravi Shankar and so on. These are few of the most renowned writers, poets and musicians who were born in Varanasi over the years. Just Amazing.
Shopping in Varanasi
The top item is obviously Banarasi silk sarees. There may be several places where you can buy sarees but I was taken to an area called Pili Kothi which is a silk weaving area of Varanasi. The old residential houses here serve as both factories and showroom! It was not that particularly cheap but there was good variety. I had to travel in an auto rickshaw as the roads were too narrow for a car!
Other than the sarees, you can consider a souvenir with Gulabi Meenakari Art which Varanasi is famous for. At many of the ghats, I found Ganga water being sold in sealed copper containers of various sizes, along with many other items that are useful for Hindu rituals.
Some of the famous market places in Varanasi include Godowlia market, Vishwanath lane and Thatteri bazaar.
Local food
The areas near the temples and ghats serve only vegetarian food. Street food is famous and I tried Malaiyo, Lassi(both are calorie rich and very filling), paan(it was served in a paper plate with a spoon!) and Chaat items(Kachori, Tikki and tomato chaat). There are many more. Tasted good no doubt but these are not something you can have on a daily basis. Kullad tea was nothing special.
As per my guide, most of the famous street food joints such as Pehalwan Lassi Bhandar are costly, cater to tourists and no longer serve authentic stuff. Better to opt for street side smallish shops. I did that for Malaiyo and Lassi but preferred the famous ‘Shri Ram Bhandar’ for the chaat items. The guide also indicated Bhang Lassi too is available in many of the establishments near the ghats.
Where to stay in Varanasi?
As I travelled during the time of Maha Kumbh Mela at Prayagraj, accommodation was very pricey and not easily available. I stayed at Rivatas by Ideal which is located on the Mall road. It cost INR 16k per night for a couple, with breakfast, about 2.5 times the normal rate. There are quite a few good hotels in the cantonment area. This is the new Varanasi, very unlike the old town. The only drawback is that it took 30 minutes to get to Namo ghat and 45 minutes to Assi ghat.
While it is best to stay closer to the main ghats, the accommodation available is mainly budget type, including hotels, homestays and guesthouses. Many of them would be housed in renovated old buildings. One needs to be careful as the photos displayed may be misleading. The only 5 star rated hotel on Darbhanga Ghat is BrijRama palace. Bit pricey though, but fantastic location. Note that many of the roads near the ghats may not be accessible by car. If you choose to stay here, you may have to carry your own luggage.
When to visit Varanasi?
October to March is the best time. I visited in February and it was quite warm. Summers are very hot with temperatures topping 40°C. Rainfall is quite heavy during the monsoon season but I guess with the Ganga river in full flow, the ghats would be totally transformed.
How many days?
As a casual tourist, 3-4 days is good. Spending time at the ghats, boat ride on river Ganga and Sarnath should be part of every itinerary.
There are quite a few options for a day trip as well as longer duration trips from Varanasi.
Getting to Varanasi
There are direct flights to Varanasi from several parts of India, including Bengaluru. Varanasi is also well connected by railways.
Local commute
I hired a car on a day basis from my hotel’s travel desk. Car will generally be required though some of the shorter distances can be covered in an auto as well. In the old city, you either walk or take manual cycle rickshaws or autos if available. When I visited, there was so much crowd on the roads near popular ghats like Assi and Dashashwamedh that even cycle rickshaws found it difficult to move. Walking was the only option until I got to a point where the crowd thinned out a bit. This was during the Maha Kumbh Mela time and hence the situation may actually be better otherwise.
One can also move from one ghat to another by boats though this is not a very convenient option. Uber/Ola/Rapido are all available and one can also find taxis outside hotels if parking space is available. Or strike a bargain with auto drivers who will also arrange taxis! An auto driver who was stationed outside my hotel was quite enterprising and he arranged for a guide to explore the by-lanes of old city.
For autos and cycle rickshaws, there are no fixed rates when it comes to visitors. I ended up paying double the normal rates.
What does a trip to Varanasi cost?
Varanasi can be incredibly cheap if you are willing to sacrifice a bit of comfort. A 3 to 5 star hotel will cost upwards of INR 5k per night. Vegetarian food is not expensive and neither is local commute. With INR 10k per day, a couple can have a very comfortable stay.
Cash is required
While UPI works, many prefer cash. E.g. guides, boats booked on the spot, autos, cycle richshaws and so on.
Varanasi is worth a visit
Varanasi is a bridge between past and present, connecting traditions and deep beliefs to modern life. It is unique in more ways than one, a blend of spirituality, culture and history. But it continues to be chaotic, crowded, noisy, dusty in parts and not very clean, especially the Old city. The river Ganga is visibly clean but the water is polluted. From what I have read, Varanasi was much worse a decade back. So a lot of clean up has happened but more needs to be done.
Yet, in my view, Varanasi is a must visit, but needs to be explored at a leisurely pace. This is not a city where one can simply rush from one place to another. The atmosphere can be quite intense, in the old city, and on the ghats. It will actually be good if you read up a bit on the history and evolution of Varanasi before visiting. It will make the trip more satisfying.
Varanasi is not an easy destination for those with mobility issues.
For more information
https://www.incredibleindia.gov.in/en/uttar-pradesh/varanasi
https://kashi.gov.in/listing/explore-varanasi
