Sitting in the Salzach river valley and surrounded by Tennen mountains (Tennengebirge), the small but beautiful village of Werfen is known for the many movies that have been shot here, including ‘The Sound of Music’. One of the songs from this movie was picturised in a meadow near Werfen and that has spawned the ‘Sound of Music Meadow Trail’. I don’t know how many tourists walk the trail but the bigger attraction in Werfen is undoubtedly Eisriesenwelt, the world’s largest ice cave followed by Hohenwerfen Fortress or Castle(Burg Hohenwerfen).
Eisriesenwelt in German literally means the World of Ice Giants and is Werfen’s main attraction. It is a natural limestone and ice cave and believed to have been formed over a period of 100 million years. As per couple of websites, Eisriesenwelt welcomes over 200k visitors over the 6 month period that it is open. That is an average of ~1000 per day. Werfen is a great choice for a day trip out of Salzburg and ranks among the most popular day trips.
Salzburg to Werfen
There are several direct trains between Salzburg and Werfen. The journey time varies from 40 minutes to 55 minutes, depending on the number of stops on the way. Best to buy a day pass so there is flexibility on which train to board, especially for the return journey. It normally costs the same as the return ticket (~€10 one way or €20 return, per adult).
Werfen railway station to Eisriesenwelt
There is a bus stop right outside the railway station from where the shuttle to Eisriesenwelt operates four times a day – 08.18am, 10.18am, 12.18pm and 14.18pm. In case you arrive at a different time, take a 10 minute walk to the Gries Parkplatz, the parking lot in Werfen village from where a shuttle operates every 25 minutes or so. Take the first path to the right as soon as you cross the bridge outside the railway station.
I reached Werfen station a little before 12noon. Almost all the passengers who got off at Werfen station started walking towards the village. I too was tempted to do so and followed for a minute before deciding to head back to the station as I had been specifically informed about the shuttle bus from the railway station. Then I noticed the small board outside the station, to the left of the exit. Decided to wait for the 12.18pm shuttle.
After a journey of about 20 minutes through Werfen village and then over a winding mountain road that provided great views of the Hohenwerfen Fortress, I was dropped off at the Visitors’ Centre(Besucherzentrum). This is located at an altitude of ~1000m. Return bus ticket costs ~€9.50 per adult.
Online entry tickets cost less
Tickets purchased online are entitled to a small discount(€38 per adult as against €42 per adult at the counter) and I chose that option. Data connection is required as there is no free WiFi. Entry is only allowed over a 30 minute window as selected while buying the tickets. That was the only reason why I did not buy the tickets ahead of time. During peak season, tickets may actually not be available as soon as one arrives and there may be a wait time. Bigger groups should obviously book in advance. I gathered that bulk of the tourists arrive between 10am and 2pm.
The climb to the Cave entrance is relatively easy
After an uphill walk of 25 minutes, I reached the cable car station. Bit of a wait and I was then transported to an altitude of 1575m in about 3 minutes. Another 25-30 minutes walk uphill led to the Cave entrance at an altitude of 1641m. The guided tours are conducted every 30 minutes or so(separate groups for English and German) so there will be a bit of a wait here as well. The time is not sancrosanct but the guides wait for sufficient number of people to show up for the Cave tour. Some time is also required to put on warm clothing as the temperature inside the cave drops below freezing point. I had an additional wait time as I arrived during lunch break!
Overall, it can take 60-80 minutes to get to the Cave entrance from the Visitors’ Centre. The climb is relatively easy though one or two stretches might appear a bit steep. And the scenery is great. The weather too was perfect though on the warmer side.
Inside the Ice Cave
The Cave is protected by a door that releases a sudden gust of wind whenever it is opened. A total climb of 134m is required inside the Cave. That is about 440 ft., almost the height of a 44 storied building @10ft. per floor. From the start at 1641m, one climbs to 1775m before descending. The first climb itself is the steepest, about 300 steps before resting. Another 400 steps need to be climbed(mostly up and a few down) before reaching the top. The steps are not continuously up and there will be flat surfaces to traverse and steps going down. But the pace is leisurely and though a bit tiring, fairly easy for those with moderate fitness. Another 700 steps down brought me back to the entrance. So a total of 1400 steps, up and down. Few portions of the steps are quite steep.
The path up and the path down connect at several points. This makes it easy for those who cannot continue the tour to the top to wait at these points and walk down with another group. An elderly couple in my group did just that.
No lighting inside the Cave
The walkways are neat and protected by railings, so a fall is unlikely. But it is dark inside, with the only source of light being the carbide lamps which the guide and few of the tour group members carry. What helped was the guide lighting up magnesium flares almost on a continuous basis that improved the visibility for us to look around. And hardly anything is seen until the flare is lit. Even then, visibility is certainly restricted.
The Cave is huge, in all dimensions. As a result, there is absolutely no feeling of claustrophobia. The total length is ~40kms and the guide explained that some portions are yet to be fully explored. But only the initial kilometer or so is open to the public. The guide showed us passages leading deeper into the cave.
The ice formations were all over the wall and floor of the Cave. Some of the formations looked magnificent. Photography is not allowed inside but we were not prevented from taking pictures on the mobile phone.
The tour lasted about 70-75 minutes.
Restaurants
There is a café at the Visitors’ Centre that serves coffee and bread/sandwiches. Plus bananas that run out of stock fairly quickly!
There is one restaurant called Dr. Odle-Haus located just after I alighted from the cable car on the way up. Unfortunately, there was hardly any choice for vegetarian food. Only salad and French fries. Serves mainly Austrian cuisine. On the way down, I packed a plate of french fries just to survive till I got to the café.
The outside seating at the restaurant has some great views of the surrounding valley and mountains. Does tend to get busy during lunch hour.
There is nothing available at Werfen railway station, except beverages. Werfen village has a restaurant but my guess is there will not be a proper vegetarian meal on offer. For vegetarians, it is best to eat whatever is available at the Visitors’ Centre Café. Packing something from Salzburg will be a good idea.
Return journey
I exited the Ice Cave around 3pm. There was a longer queue for the Cable car but I had plenty of time to catch the last bus straight to the Werfen railway station. My best recollection is that it was around 4.30pm. I narrowly missed the 4.47pm train to Salzburg and had to wait an hour for the next train. In case you need to buy the return ticket, the ticket machine is on platform 1. Better option is buying it online.
How much time required for Eisriesenwelt?
I arrived at the Werfen railway staion around 11.45am and on the return, reached the station at 4.45pm. A total time of 5 hours. Unless you travel in a private car or as part of an organized tour, it will be difficult to compress the required time. Also note that having a full meal would also require more time.
Opening hours
Open between May and October only. The first tour from the Cave entrance starts at 9.30am and the last one at 3.45pm. The Visitors’ Centre opens at 8.30am. I visited in the first week of October when the weather was just about perfect for a climb.
What else to see in Werfen?
The Hohenwerfen Fortress, perched on a hillock like its counterparts elsewhere, was clearly visible as soon as I exited the Werfen railway station. Can only be visited as part of a guided tour. What may make the visit more interesting is the Falcon show that is held at 11am and 3.15pm. I had not planned for this visit and my leisurely arrival at Werfen meant I did not have time to visit the Fortress.
Is it possible to visit both the Ice Cave and Fortress on the same day?
It is theoretically possible to visit both the Fortress and the Ice Cave in a day, even if travelling by train from Salzburg. But it will be a bit rushed. From the Werfen railway station, the Fortress is over 2kms away, a walking time of at least 30 minutes to the base of the hillock. The website says one can order for a shuttle about an hour before requirement. In any case, to cover both the Fortress and the Ice Cave in a day, one will need to either get to the Fortress as soon as it opens(~9am) or get to the Ice Cave in time for the first guided tour at 9.30am. The Fortress is normally open between 9am and 5 pm.
Check this link for more details on the Fortress.
https://www.salzburg-burgen.at/en/hohenwerfen-castle/
Travelling by car will make it easier to visit both the Cave and the Fortress in a day. Guided tours are also available from Salzburg.
Total cost by train from Salzburg railway station
About €80-100 per adult for the Ice Cave.
Is Eisriesenwelt a must see?
I think so. Some of the ice formations are quite spectacular. And the overall experience was very enjoyable. I still wonder what difference it would make with subdued lighting inside. So if you happen to be in Salzburg, Eisriesenwelt is certainly worth a visit.
For more information
https://www.eisriesenwelt.at/en/
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