Kodagu district, better known by its old name Coorg, is among the most popular destination for tourists in Karnataka. Famous for its coffee plantations with quaint colonial bungalows and green topped rolling hills, Coorg is located on the eastern slopes of Western Ghats. Because of its lush green landscape, Coorg is often called the Scotland of India.
There is not too much to do in terms of activities or places to visit and that is probably why Coorg is an ideal destination to relax in the company of family and friends. And in few places, mobile data connectivity is poor, adding to the sense of isolation!
How to get to Coorg
Coorg does not have an airport or a railway network. The only way to reach Coorg is by road. Nearest airports/train stations are at Kannur in Kerala or Mangalore/Mysore in Karnataka.
By road from Bengaluru
From Bengaluru, Madikeri, the district headquarters and the largest town, is 250-275kms away, depending on the route taken. While the traditional route through Mysore continues to be popular, the route via NH 75 to Channarayapattana, and then onto Holenarsipur, Kushalnagar and Madikeri is faster.
Madikeri is about 120kms from Mysore and the journey takes almost 3 hours. The condition of road was good only in patches when I travelled. It is also a two lane road and with traffic heavy, bringing down the average speed. Overall, it can take 7 hours or more from Bengaluru to Madikeri with two short breaks.
The other route via NH75 is great until Channarayapattana, with average speed easily topping 80 km/hr. From Channarayapattana to Kushalnagar, the road is not that well maintained. It is only two lanes in many places and overtaking is not always easy. I had to be very watchful for almost ‘invisible road humps’ and sometimes felt comfortable driving behind another vehicle. But the road passes through very scenic places. With 2 short breaks, the journey can be covered in 6 hours.
Overnight in Mysore
While 7 hours may not be a long drive, it is nice to take a break en-route. Staying overnight in Mysore is a good option. The last time, I chose to stay at Royal Orchid, Brindavan Gardens. The bonus is access to Brindavan Gardens in the morning before the public comes in. Quite exhilarating.
KRS Dam and Brindavan Gardens, Mysore, Karnataka Brindavan Gardens, Mysore, Karnataka
Restaurants on the way from Bengaluru
While Bengaluru to Mysore highway has plenty of restaurants, I hardly noticed any decent ones on the Mysore-Madikeri road. Just couple of cafes on the way and in Kushalnagar. Since Madikeri is less than 3 hours from Mysore, best to have meals in Mysore and stop for only beverages on way to Madikeri.
On the road via Channarayapattana(NH75), there are few options until Channarayapattana but hardly any thereafter all the way to Kushalnagar. I did spot few vendors selling tender coconut though, but that’s hardly a substitute for meals. If you must eat on the way, do so at any restaurant on NH75 or carry packed food.
What to see in Coorg
Coorg is more about enjoying a tranquil plantation stay than running around to various sights of interest. And if you are staying in one of the luxury resorts, better enjoy the in-house facilities. But whenever you have a bit of time, consider visiting some of the following places.
Madikeri and nearby
1. Raja’s seat in Madikeri is a view-point and provides very scenic views. It is on way to Taj Madikeri.
2. Talacauvery, located about 45 kms from Madikeri in Brahmagiri hills, is believed to be the birth place of river Cauvery. Another unique feature is that Talacauvery is among the only two places in India that has a temple dedicated to Lord Brahma.
3. Abbey(Or Abbi) Falls, about 10 kms from Madikeri, can be reached after a fairly steep 20 minute walk through plantations of coffee and spices. With water falling from a height of 70feet, Abbey falls looks very good only during the monsoon season or couple of months thereafter. The hanging bridge right in front of the falls was closed when I visited and the viewing platform was crowded. It would have been actually very nice to sit and enjoy quiet moments amidst the roar of the waterfalls. There is no access to the water here.
Parking space is available and there are fair several stalls selling snacks and beverages at the entry point.
4. Other places to consider include Madikeri Fort and Omkareshwar temple in Madikeri.
View from Raja’s Seat, Madikeri, Karnataka Abbey Falls, Coorg, Karnataka Abbey Falls, Coorg, Karnataka
Kushalnagar and nearby
5. Dubbare, about 15 kms from Kushalnagar, has an elephant training camp. You have the opportunity to bathe elephants, feed them and then ride them. But you cannot do these at your convenience! Do check the timings when elephants are bathed, fed and taken on safari if you want to be involved in all 3 activities. It is a fun place to spend couple of hours, especially if you are travelling with kids.
6. Nisargadhama, a small forested island formed by river Cauvery, about 3kms from Kushalnagar. The island has good tree cover, a deer park and a place to get wet in the river. I had stayed overnight in one of the cottages on the island 2 decades ago and at that time, Nisargadhama was surely unique. May not be so today but it is nice to spend an hour or two here amidst nature.
It is located right next to the highway. Parking is available and there are lot of stalls selling food and other items near the entry point.
7. Namdroling Monastery is located at Bylakuppe, 11kms from Kushalnagar. Also called the Golden Temple, it is a very beautiful structure. I have always found Buddhist monasteries to be great places to spend time in contemplation.
Bylakuppe is the second largest settlement of Tibetans outside Tibet, the first being Dharmashala. You can shop for Tibetan artefacts here or simply try Tibetan food, my favourite being momos.
8. Harangi Dam and backwaters. The dam is located about 10kms from Kushalnagar. Built over River Harangi, a tributary of River Cauvery, Harangi is among the largest dams in Karnataka, in terms of the size of its reservoir. There is a garden in front of the dam but importantly, visitors are not allowed on top of the dam to view the reservoir. To see the backwaters, I went near Coorg Jungle Camp Backwater Resort. It was a nice short drive from the highway, on narrow roads through the plantations.
What else?
If you are fond of trekking, there are options to trek to the three highest peaks in Coorg.
To avoid to and fro commute, set apart one day for places of interest near Kushalnagar. And another day for places near Madikeri such as Raja’s Seat, Madikeri Fort, Abbey Falls, and Talacauvery.
Nisargadhama, Coorg, Karnataka Nisargadhama, Coorg, Karnataka Harangi Backwaters, Coorg, Karnataka Harangi Dam, Coorg, Karnataka Namdroling Monastery, Coorg, Karnataka
Where to stay
There are plenty of choices ranging from resorts to hotels to home stays to suit every budget. But I do believe most are over priced though few resorts offer very spacious rooms/cottages(over 500 sq. ft) that partly explains the higher cost. But mostly, it is because the demand outstrips supply. Some of the well-known luxury resorts include Taj Madikeri, Evolve Back(erstwhile Orange County), Tamara, Ayatana and Coorg Wilderness Resort . Then there is Club Mahindra where I had ‘Coorgi lunch’ that was just fabulous.
Independent villas are good option for larger groups
There are options to book independent bungalows as well, either by rooms or the full bungalow. Ama Stays and Trails(by Taj) offers colonial style bungalows in the midst of coffee plantations and costs upwards of INR 25k per night, for the full bungalow on full board basis. If you are looking for homestays, do read reviews carefully, especially those that operate independently. Food can be a bit problematic in homestays.
On my last visit, I chose a 3BR villa at Birchwood Retreat. The location was good, the food excellent and with couple of minor issues, it was just like home! I did get a good price by directly calling the resort-about INR 21k per night with breakfast for 6 persons. Surprisingly, the price indicated on Agoda was 66% higher. Had I paid the price quoted on Agoda, the ‘value’ would have been far lower.
A villa amidst plantation, Coorg, Karnataka
If you are more keen on local sightseeing, choose a place closer to Kushalnagar or Madikeri(preferable due to higher altitude and greenery). For everybody else, any of the secluded resorts located amidst rain forests/plantations.
Accomodation is cheaper Sunday to Thursday
The rates are normally lower from Sunday to Thursday, except during the periods when schools are shut. Be prepared to shell out INR 15K to INR 25k per night for 2 adults, with breakfast, for the luxury/deluxe resorts while Taj will cost over INR 20k and Evolve Back over 25k per night. Club Mahindra is quite popular and a room here for 2 adults can be booked for under INR 10k per night.
There are good hotels available for under INR 10k per night while the price at Homestays will depend on whether you book the whole house or only room.
Coorgi cuisine
The best way to enjoy local vegetarian cuisine is to taste the set Thali/meal. But do so only if you like eating rice.
How many days for Coorg?
About 3 days is ideal.
For a longer holiday, consider combining Coorg with Kerala or Nagarahole National Park.
Best time to visit
Avoid the rainy season from June to September when it rains heavily. November to February is probably the best time in terms of lower average temperatures. One can get by with very light warm clothing. October and March to May is also good though it gets a bit warm during the day. Abbey Falls and Nisargadhama are most attractive just after the rains.
Anything special to buy in Coorg?
Coorg produces lot of coffee but very little tea. Coffee is an obvious buy if you like the flavour. Honey, select spices, cashew, figs and raisins are other items locally produced. Then there is home made non-alcoholic wine available in several flavors and hand made chocolates.
There are several shops on the highway as well as in Madikeri and Kushalnagar selling all the above items. You can buy anywhere but ask for items grow locally as many of the products are actually sourced from Bengaluru and elsewhere! It is quite possible the markets in Madikeri or Kushalnagar may be cheaper than the stand alone shops on the highway but these shops are conveniently located.
In any case, be aware of the normal prices you pay for such items at home. It is not as if local items are cheaper. The packaging too did not display any of the information that I am accustomed to seeing in Bengaluru. But the quality was good. I mainly purchased few varieties of spices, green tea and dry fruits(cashew, figs).
Is Coorg worth visiting?
If you are the kind who loves to soak in nature, then a definite yes. It is a great location for a short holiday. To me, it is worth visiting multiple times over the years, especially since I live within driving distance. And I have always stay at different locations each time.