The Jyotirlingas are believed to the divine form of Lord Shiva. There are 12 such Jyotirlingas in India and the popular belief is that if one visits all the 12 Jyotirlingas, he or she would be relieved from karmic bondage and be free from the cycle of birth and death. As it is, Lord Shiva is worshipped by millions of devotees and it is not surprising that the Jyotirlingas too attract millions of devotees every year.
Jyotirlinga vs Shivalinga
As opposed to Shivalingas which are created by man, Jyotirlingas are said to be not man made but ‘Swayambhu’, born of itself. Each of the 12 Jyortirlingas has interesting legend as to its formation.
I had an opportunity recently to visit the two Jyortirlingas in Madhya Pradesh, located at Omkareshwar and Ujjain. The closest airport is at Indore.
Jyotirlinga temple, Omkareshwar, Madhya Pradesh Mahakal Jyotirlinga temple, Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh
How to get to Omkareshwar
Omkareshwar is located about 80kms south from Indore and the best way (possibly the only way) to get there is by road – I hired a private car but one can take the bus as well, government or private. The journey time over the Indore-Khandwa road and then onto Mortakka – Omkareshwar road is about 2.5 hours with one break. This should come down in future once the widening and cementing of the road from Indore to the national highway no. 52 bypass is completed. But thereafter, the entire stretch is a 2 laned road which slows down traffic. While the road condition was ok, the scenery was nothing much to write about. So even if you take a nap, you would not have missed anything!
Balraj Retreat was the only decent restaurant on the way, little more than midway in terms of time from Indore. I noted a few more decent ones on the Mortakka-Omkareshwar road.
Villages free of garbage were a pleasant surprise
What did catch my eye were the relatively clean villages I passed through(not all but many). Indore too has been rated among the cleanest of Indian cities for several years now.
How to get to Ujjain
Ujjain is located about 55kms to the north of Indore, on the banks of river Shipra(or Kshipra). It takes about 1.5 hours by road from Indore and the road condition is excellent. But traffic is moderate to heavy. There are plenty of restaurants on the way.
Are Omkareshwar and Ujjain good for a casual tourist?
Unfortunately no. These two destinations are for either the religious minded or the spiritual minded. The location of Omkareshwar is quite spectacular and impressive at first sight, with precariously perched houses on two hills and river Narmada flowing through the gorge in between. But there is nothing to hold the interest of a casual tourist. And Ujjain, despite a fascinating history, does not impress overall.
Omkareshwar, Madhya Pradesh Ram ghat, Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh
For those inclined to visit Omkareshwar and Ujjain, follow the links to read more.
Best time to visit Omkareshwar and Ujjain
Summer months are very hot. Winter months are better but it would still be a bit hot during the day time. Monsoon season may also be a good time as the rainfall in not heavy but in Omkareshwar, if water is released from the dam, the lower reaches may get flooded and boats may not ply. Avoid visiting during festivals unless that is your intention.
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Be prepared for walk in Omkareshwar
While it is possible to drive a two wheeler to Mandhata island, cars have to be parked on the mainland. So there is some walking required, with many ups and downs over steps and ramps, to visit various temples. But Jyotirlinga temple is readily accessible via the suspension bridge.
How many days?
Both Omkareshwar and Ujjain can be covered over 3 days from Indore. Or even over a compressed 2 day trip for only Jyotirlinga temples. I did not find any great options for travel to nearby locations except Maheshwar and Mandu. From Omkareshwar, it takes about 1.5 hours(under 70kms) to reach Maheshwar. Mandu is little more than an hour’s drive from Maheshwar (~40kms).
Maheshwar can be good option if you wish to enjoy the comforts of a heritage hotel and spend quiet moments on the Maheshwari ghat. Not much to see here.
In Maheshwar
About couple of hours in Maheshwar is enough to visit the Narmada ghat and the Ahilya or Holkar fort located on the ghat. Plus few temples within the fort premises, including Kashi Vishwanath and Ahilyeshwar. I found the Narmada(or Maheshwari) ghat to be quite picturesque, quieter and better than the ones in Omkareshwar. Boating option too is available.
Maheswar has a heritage hotel called Ahilya Fort hotel with great views of the river Narmada. Few of the 18th century buildings have been converted to a hotel. I was initially considering staying here but eventually preferred Omkareshwar and Mandu for sheer convenience and to avoid additional driving.
Narmada ghat with Ahilya Fort, Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh Narmada ghat, Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh Narmada ghat, Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh Narmada ghat, Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh
Mandu
I was quite disappointed with Mandu. Not sure if the heat played a part. You can read more on Mandu here.
The drive from Mandu to Indore passes through some of the extensive wheat growing areas in Madhya Pradesh.
Anything special to buy?
Maheshwari sarees and dress material(handloom) are fairly famous and you can buy them either at Maheshwar or Indore. Chanderi sarees are also well known. In Indore, I was recommended Mrignayani M P Emporium located on Mahatma Gandhi Road. Not a very big shop but prices are fixed and they were 20-25% lower than what I was quoted in Ujjain.
Locally popular food items
I tried most of the popular local food items include Poha(bit sweetish though), Sabudana(Sago) Khichdi, Kachoris(many varities of fillings), Jalebi, Gulab Jamun, and varieties of Namkeen(salty snacks). While most of these items are available in hotels, I visited Chappan Dukan in Indore for a greater variety of lip smacking snacks, food items, sweets, ice cream and beverages. If you are a foodie, you will need more than couple of days to try out all the available options.